Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm) sits in a rare sweet spot. It can build a real trunk and crown like a classic palm, yet it tolerates cool-temperate weather patterns that stall many other trunking palms. That combination makes it one of the most widely grown fan palms outside truly mild climates—and also one of the most misunderstood.
Want to grow it? You’ll find Trachycarpus fortunei here.
Cold tolerance is part of the story, but it is not the whole story. Windmill palm survives winter best when the growing point stays healthy and the root zone stays oxygenated. Trouble arrives when cold stacks with a wet, chilled crown for days, when soil stays saturated and cold, when wind strips moisture from leaves during frost, or when a pot freezes from the sides and roots take the hit first. Leaf burn looks dramatic, but a living bud can push new growth. A rotting bud ends the plant.
Origin and habitat explain why. Modern native-range treatments place Trachycarpus fortunei in south-central China extending into northern Myanmar, with habitat described in mountain forests and sheltered microsites, with records up to about 2400 m. Warm, wet summers and cold winters are part of that ecological fingerprint. In cultivation, that tends to translate into a palm that grows happily with regular moisture and bright light during the growing season, but demands fast drainage and sensible crown management when cold and wet overlap.
Growth rhythm matters, too. Windmill palm does not rush into “palm tree” form. A long trunkless juvenile phase is normal, and small plants can stay as dense rosettes for years. Trunking usually begins only after leaf size becomes substantial. Indoors, that juvenile look often lasts even longer because light and root volume are the limiting factors. Many growers get the best of both worlds by treating windmill palm as a container plant: outdoors through the warm season for strength and leaf quality, then under cover for winter so roots never sit frozen in a pot.
Trachycarpus fortunei is a solitary fan palm with a fibrous trunk and a single growing point. Mature plants can carry real cold on foliage, but long-term reliability depends more on site conditions than on bravado. Fast winter drainage, a crown that doesn’t stay wet and cold for long stretches, and reduced wind exposure are the big levers.
Think of windmill palm as two different plants depending on where roots live:
| Growth form | Solitary trunk-forming fan palm; one crown; one terminal growing point |
|---|---|
| Signature look | Persistent brown fibre from old leaf bases; fan leaves that often tear in wind |
| Leaves | Large pleated fans with many narrow segments (often around 40–50 on mature leaves); petiole edges are finely toothed |
| Native-range character | Upland, warm-temperate to subtropical mountain climates; warm wet summers and cold winters; sheltered, mesic microsites |
| Cold in numbers (useful, not a promise) | Adult leaf injury begins around −11 °C; about 50% leaf injury near −13 °C; survival after harsher events is possible if the growing point survives, but not a design target |
| Flowers vs frost | Flowering tissue is far less frost tolerant than leaves (damage can start around −1 to −3 °C; severe damage occurs with lower late frosts) |
| Weak link | Roots and root tips are more freeze-sensitive than adult leaves, especially in containers |
| Indoor reality | Best as a bright conservatory/glasshouse or overwintering container palm; in ordinary interiors it often stays juvenile-looking for years |
| Pet safety & handling | Commonly listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs; petiole edges can scratch—gloves help when tying or moving the crown |
| Propagation | Mainly by seed; germination can be slow/irregular and responds best to a cold phase followed by warmth |
| What your winters are like | In-ground outlook | What usually makes it work | What usually causes trouble |
|---|---|---|---|
| Usually above about −8 °C, with occasional brief frost | Often a good in-ground candidate | Fast drainage + some shelter from wind | Waterlogged soil or a wind corridor |
| Regularly around −8 to −12 °C | Possible, but site-dependent | Protected microclimate, dry root zone, event-based crown protection during wet freezes | Cold + wet crown, cold + saturated roots, repeated freeze–thaw |
| Often below about −12 °C, or long freeze duration | High managed-risk in ground | Consistent winter protection, excellent siting, and a plan for prolonged cold | Bud damage and root loss; pot culture left outdoors is especially risky |
Trachycarpus fortunei has a reputation for label chaos, but most of it is predictable once you know why it happens. Cultivation history is long, older botanical names still circulate in horticulture, and juvenile plants look nothing like the trunking specimens people picture when they hear “palm tree.” That makes it easy for one species to show up under different names—and for different fan palms to be sold under the same common name when they’re small.
The accepted name in modern references is Trachycarpus fortunei (Hook.) H.Wendl. Older listings sometimes use the basionym Chamaerops fortunei. In trade, the most common labels are windmill palm and Chusan palm. You’ll also see hemp palm, pointing to the fibrous coat formed by persistent old leaf bases.
Many sellers list “Trachycarpus wagnerianus” as if it were a separate species. In major modern checklists it’s often treated within Trachycarpus fortunei. In cultivation, plants sold under “wagnerianus” usually share a recognisable look: more compact crowns, stiffer fans, and a tidier silhouette that often holds up better in wind. Care and winter risk are broadly the same; the difference shows up mainly in how the plant looks under exposure.
A mature windmill palm is typically solitary: one trunk, one crown, one terminal growing point. The trunk carries a persistent, ropey fibre cloak formed by old leaf bases. That “hemp” look stays visible even when leaves are wind-torn or winter-burned.
Chamaerops humilis is a frequent garden mix-up because it’s also a hardy fan palm. The useful difference is habit: Chamaerops tends to clump and produce multiple stems, while Trachycarpus fortunei is typically solitary and trunk-forming.
Other Trachycarpus species and forms can appear in the trade, sometimes under vague “windmill palm” labels. When plants are small, leaf shape overlaps. Structure becomes the anchor as they mature: solitary trunking, persistent fibre, and the typical crown silhouette.
Trachycarpus fortunei is an Asian palm with an accepted native range centred on south-central China and extending into northern Myanmar. Pinning down “truly wild” boundaries is harder than it sounds, because cultivation is old and widespread. In practical terms: origin is clearly Asian and upland in character, but centuries of planting and movement have blurred the edges in a way that doesn’t happen with many modern ornamentals.
Habitat descriptions line up on one theme: this is not a lowland rainforest palm. It occurs in mountain settings, often in forested landscapes, with records reaching roughly 2400 m. Climate framing from native-range work points to warm, wet summers paired with colder winters. That’s exactly the combination that makes windmill palm behave differently from “tropical house palms”—it can tolerate cool summers and real winter cold on foliage, but it expects a root zone with oxygen, and it struggles when cold overlaps with persistent wetness.
Recruitment patterns are a useful clue. In both native and naturalised contexts, establishment is often reported in sheltered, moisture-retentive microsites: ravines, streamside woods, shaded forest edges, and other places where soil stays evenly moist through the growing season without becoming stagnant. That does not mean windmill palm is a deep-shade palm long-term. It means young plants can persist in shelter, build roots slowly, and wait. As plants gain size, brighter conditions usually translate into stronger growth and sturdier leaves.
Trachycarpus fortunei looks straightforward at first glance: one trunk, one crown, fan leaves. What makes it interesting is how strongly structure and age shape performance. A young plant can sit as a trunkless rosette for years, then “switch on” trunk extension once leaf size and root capacity cross a threshold. A mature plant can lose a lot of leaf area in winter and still recover, while a small plant in a pot can fail in temperatures that only scorch leaves on an established specimen.
This palm grows from a single terminal growing point. The newest spear sits closest to the bud, and bud survival decides whether growth continues. Leaf damage can be ugly and still be recoverable. A damaged or rotting bud is not.
The root system is adventitious and fibrous rather than woody. A lot of active root mass tends to sit in the upper soil layers, which is why drainage and oxygen matter so much. Root tips are among the most freeze-sensitive tissues. That mismatch explains a common pattern: foliage survives a cold spell (or recovers later), while a container plant collapses because the rootball froze from the sides.
The trunk is solitary, erect, and wrapped in dark brown fibres formed by persistent old leaf sheaths. The crown tends to stay relatively narrow compared with many fan palms, which is why a mature specimen fits into courtyards and tighter spaces without turning into a wide canopy.
Trunk does not appear early. Small plants commonly stay trunkless for years, building leaf size and root capacity first. Once vertical extension begins, the plant starts to read as a “palm tree” rather than a rosette.
Mature leaves can be large (often up to about 1–1.5 m across) and are divided into many narrow segments—often around 40–50 segments on established plants. Petioles can be long and are finely toothed, so handling is easier with gloves. Segment tearing and frayed tips are extremely common in exposed sites. That damage is usually mechanical. A wind-battered plant can be healthy and still look permanently rough until exposure improves and a new set of leaves forms in cleaner conditions.
Inflorescences can be substantial (often in the 20–90 cm range on established plants). Trachycarpus fortunei is usually dioecious, meaning male and female flowers occur on separate plants. Some research suggests sex expression can be more complex in occasional individuals; for practical growing and seed set planning, separate sexes are still the safest assumption.
Female plants produce dark blue to nearly black drupes, each with one seed. Fruit can be ornamental, but it also matters ecologically: seed production drives spread in places where seedlings can establish.
A long juvenile phase is normal. In cool-summer climates and in containers with limited root volume, “slow” usually looks like steady but modest leaf production and a long run of trunkless growth. As root volume and light increase, the plant becomes more resilient and more predictable, and trunking becomes a matter of time rather than a mystery.
As a rough benchmark, field observations often place visible trunk formation later than many people expect—commonly after leaves reach a large adult scale. Treat that as a patience cue, not a target to “push” with fertiliser.
That shaggy trunk coat is not just “leftover mess.” Leaf sheaths and stem tissues are structurally distinct, and studies of windmill palm anatomy describe dense fibre architecture and silica bodies in sheath tissues. In practice, that translates into a trunk covering that persists for years and contributes to the palm’s distinctive look and durability.
Outdoor success starts with one idea: winter pattern matters as much as winter minimums. Windmill palm can take real cold on foliage, but it dislikes cold that arrives with a wet crown, saturated roots, and drying wind. If those stressors stack up, a site that looks “mild enough” on paper can still be a high-risk place to plant.
Windmill palm tolerates full sun, but visual quality often improves with a little protection: lightly dappled shade or bright open shelter can produce cleaner fans and reduce stress from drying wind. Full sun can work well where moisture is adequate and exposure is controlled.
Windmill palm is flexible about soil chemistry, but it is much less tolerant of stagnant winter wet than many casual care guides imply. In heavy soils or sites that stay waterlogged in winter, the safest fix is structural: raise the planting area so part of the root system sits above seasonal saturation. A broad, low mound is often more effective than “improving the hole.”
Wet snow and freeze-thaw slush can sit in the crown and keep spear tissue cold and damp. During heavy snow events, tying up the crown reduces snow loading and helps water shed away from the growing point. If snow accumulates heavily, gently shake it off when it is safe to do so—avoid forcing frozen petioles, which can crack and bruise.
Leaf hardiness and flower hardiness are not the same thing. Flowers are far less frost tolerant than leaves, so late frosts can wipe out a flowering season even when the palm itself is thriving.
Planting is where windmill palm is either set up for decades of steady growth or pushed into a slow, stressful fight. What it won’t forgive for long is a root zone that stays cold and airless or a crown that sits wet and chilled for days at a time.
Spring planting is the simplest way to stack the odds in your favour. Warm soil speeds root regeneration, and a full growing season lets the palm anchor before the first winter test. Summer planting can also work if moisture is steady while the rootball transitions to open soil. Autumn planting is riskiest in climates with cold, wet winters: roots have less time to expand, and saturated soil around a newly planted rootball is exactly the condition that causes losses.
Trachycarpus fortunei tolerates a wide range of soil chemistry, but winter waterlogging is a hard limit. If water sits for long periods after rain, fix the structure or choose a different location.
A common failure is a beautifully amended planting hole in otherwise heavy soil. That can create a “bathtub” that holds water around the rootball in winter. Improve a wide area, not just the planting hole. In heavier soils, raising the planting area matters more than adding compost. A broad low mound (often around 20–30 cm high, extending well beyond the rootball in all directions) helps keep part of the root system above seasonal saturation.
Encourage roots to move outward into better-aerated soil. Overly deep planting holes can settle, leaving the base too low and too wet. Aim for correct depth and better structure around the planting zone.
Set the rootball so the top of the root mass sits level with surrounding soil (or slightly raised in heavier ground). Avoid burying the base of the trunk. Keep mulch and soil off the trunk base so it doesn’t sit like a damp collar.
Windmill palm becomes top-heavy long before it becomes tall. If the plant rocks in wind, roots struggle to knit into surrounding soil. In exposed sites, temporary staking can help. Stabilise the rootball without cinching the trunk hard. Once the plant no longer wobbles, remove supports so the trunk can flex normally.
Water deeply so the entire rootball is wetted, then wait until the surface has dried and the soil beneath feels only slightly moist before watering again. The rhythm should move from fully moist to partly dry without the site staying soggy. If ground stays wet for days after watering, drainage is the problem.
Container culture turns windmill palm into a plant you can steer. Root temperature, drainage, wind exposure, and winter wet become choices instead of fate. Done well, a potted palm builds a sturdier crown through the warm season, then coasts through winter under cover with far fewer setbacks than a pot left exposed outdoors.
This palm isn’t picky about pH, but it is picky about oxygen. The best mixes wet evenly, drain fast, and still hold usable moisture during active growth. A loam-based mix can work, but it often needs extra structure so it doesn’t slump into cold, waterlogged paste over time.
For a deeper breakdown of mix ingredients and how they change drainage, aeration, and water-holding, see The Ultimate Guide to Houseplant Substrates.
For drying-pattern diagnostics and reliable watering checks, see The Ultimate Guide to Watering Houseplants.
In containers, salts accumulate faster than most people expect—especially with hard water, frequent feeding, and cool winter conditions where uptake is slow. Tip burn and a tired, grey-green look can come from a salty root zone as much as from “not enough fertiliser.” During warm, active growth, occasional full-volume watering that runs freely out of the pot helps reset the mix. In winter, avoid heavy flushing in cold, low-light conditions; keeping the mix airy and letting it dry deeper between waterings is the better lever.
Windmill palm does not need aggressive grooming to stay healthy. Main goal is simple: keep as much functioning leaf area as you can while removing what is truly dead or physically problematic.
The fibrous coat buffers the stem and also hides pests like scale. There isn’t one “right” look—only a clean way to handle whichever choice you make.
Winter damage is easy to misread because leaves are dramatic and the growing point is hidden. A palm can look ruined and still be alive, and a palm can look “mostly fine” while the bud is already compromised. Leaves are replaceable; the growing point is not.
Cold numbers help set expectations, but they are not a promise. Controlled work places first adult leaf injury around −11 °C and heavier foliar damage nearer −13 °C. In real gardens, palms have recovered after severe events when the growing point survived—including rare “resilience stories” after near-total defoliation. Those extremes are not sensible targets. Duration, wetness, wind, freeze–thaw cycling, and root-zone exposure decide what a temperature “means” on your site.
This is the classic spear-loss pathway. Water sits in the crown, temperatures drop, tissue is weakened, and rot organisms take advantage. A spear that stops moving, discolours at the base, or pulls with soft tissue is the warning signal.
Cold soil holds less oxygen, metabolism slows, and roots sit airless for long stretches. A palm can look “fine” through winter, then fail in spring because roots never recovered.
Cold, drying wind strips moisture from leaf tissue while uptake is limited. That turns manageable cold into heavy burn and slow recovery, even when the bud survives.
Containers lose heat from the sides. Roots are more freeze-sensitive than adult leaves, so the rootball can take lethal damage in a pot even when an established in-ground palm would “only” scorch leaves.
For rot triage and recovery logic when roots are compromised, see Root Rot: Treatment and Recovery.
Winter protection works when it matches the real risk: crown wetness, wind desiccation, freeze duration, and root temperature in pots. Aim is protecting the growing point and the root zone without trapping cold moisture around the crown.
Use this when a forecast stacks risk factors: prolonged frost with wet weather, or freezing temperatures with strong cold wind.
1) Tie up the crown (loosely). Gather fronds upward and secure gently.
2) Add a breathable insulating layer. Wrap tied crown and upper trunk with fleece or another breathable fabric.
3) Shed water during wet freezes. Add a rain-shedding cap above the crown. Keep it not airtight.
4) Vent during mild breaks. Open protection as soon as temperatures lift.
5) Remove promptly. Continuous wrapping trades airflow and light for little benefit and increases rot risk.
| Forecast pattern | Priority | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cold + wet | Keep crown from staying wet | Tie-up + breathable wrap + rain-shedding cap, then vent/remove when it clears |
| Cold + strong wind | Reduce desiccation and tearing | Tie-up + windbreak; add breathable wrap if exposure is severe |
| Long freeze duration | Protect roots | Insulate root zone; containers moved/insulated early, not after damage starts |
A windmill palm can look terrible after a hard frost and still be salvageable. Fan leaves burn, tips collapse, and the crown can turn winter-brown. Any remaining green tissue is still feeding the plant, and keeping some photosynthetic area helps rebuild roots and push a new spear once temperatures rise.
Leave anything that still carries meaningful green until growth has clearly restarted. Clean-up looks better once new spear movement is steady.
If rain or thaw water collects in the crown, shed water away from the spear zone while keeping air moving. Avoid plastic or airtight wrapping.
Restart can be quick in warm springs, or slow when roots were chilled or damaged. Weeks to months is not unusual after a hard winter event. Steady spear movement is the reliable sign of progress.
Overwintering is less about “keeping it warm” and more about keeping the crown sound and the root zone stable. Roots are far more cold-sensitive than adult leaves, and a potted palm left exposed outdoors can lose the root system long before the crown looks catastrophic.
Bright conservatory, cool glasshouse, or bright porch with cool nights. Watering stays minimalist compared to summer: after a thorough watering, let roughly the top 50–70% of pot depth dry before watering again.
Frost-free space with limited light. Aim is keeping roots alive and spear firm until better light returns. Let roughly the top 70–85% of pot depth dry before watering again.
Possible, but usually the messiest: higher pest pressure, softer growth, and slower recovery by late winter. Keep the root zone behaving “winter-cool”: let roughly the top 50–70% of pot depth dry between waterings, keep the plant close to the brightest window, and prioritise airflow.
Feeding can make a real difference—when basics are already working. Light, drainage, and root oxygen set the ceiling. Fertiliser tweaks how close the plant gets to that ceiling.
Growth looks best when the root zone stays evenly moist during warm, active growth without becoming stagnant. Many “nutrient problems” are actually root problems: cold, airless soil slows uptake, so foliage pales even when nutrients are present.
If you want a practical framework for dilution, formats, and common mistakes, see Beginner's Guide to Fertilizing Houseplants.
Palms have one terminal growing point. Problems that distort or weaken new growth aren’t just cosmetic; they can threaten the crown long-term. Potassium and magnesium are frequent macro issues, and manganese and boron are notable because deficiency can show in new growth.
| What you see | Often points toward | Best first move |
|---|---|---|
| Older fronds yellowing from tips/margins | Normal ageing, K/Mg imbalance, or chronic root stress | Confirm drainage and watering rhythm, then feed lightly during active growth |
| Older fronds with interveinal paling | Mg-related issues or uptake slowed by cold/wet roots | Improve root-zone oxygen first; consider a palm fertiliser that includes Mg once growth is active |
| Newest growth weak, small, distorted | Micronutrient issues (often Mn/B) or bud stress | Stabilise roots/crown conditions; use a palm-appropriate micronutrient source per label if deficiency is suspected |
| No improvement despite feeding | Light limitation, cold roots, compacted mix, or root congestion | Increase light, repot into airier structure if needed, reduce winter-wet conditions |
Most issues come from a small set of causes: exposure (wind, sun, cold spells), root-zone conditions (especially winter saturation or a pot that stays cold and wet), and crown health (the growing point). The fastest way to troubleshoot is to start at the centre and work outward.
| What you see | Most likely cause | What to do now | What prevents a repeat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spear pulls; base soft or smells sour | Bud injury after cold/wet spell; rot risk | Keep crown dry and airy; remove only loose necrotic tissue; pause feeding until spear moves cleanly | Better crown wet management + drainage; avoid trapped moisture in wraps |
| Spear doesn’t move into warming weather | Cold-stalled growth, root loss, or bud damage | Check drainage/root temperature; don’t strip green fronds; monitor crown | Root insulation (pots), winter oxygen supply (ground), wind shelter |
| Leaves shredded, ragged tips | Wind tearing | Focus on exposure; let new leaves replace old | Wind breaks, calmer placement |
| Black blotches/spotting | Opportunists favoured by stress + wet foliage | Increase airflow; reduce chronic wetness; remove worst leaves if heavily affected | Avoid late overhead wetting; reduce cold/wind stress |
| Bracket/conk at base | Butt rot risk (often Ganoderma) | Assume structural decline; plan removal if confirmed | No reliable cure; treat as terminal and manage as a hazard |
Windmill palm is tough when conditions are right: a well-aerated root zone, a crown that dries between wet spells, and enough light to keep tissue firm. Stress changes that. Cold + wet crowns, chronic winter saturation, and repeated wind desiccation weaken tissue and slow repair, making pests and opportunists easier to establish.
Scale insects build slowly and hide at petioles, leaf bases, undersides, and within trunk fibre. Mites are most common in warm, dry, still overwintering setups. Aphids can show up on inflorescences and are usually seasonal.
Look for emerging leaves with holes or irregular tearing that doesn’t match wind shredding, repeated debris in the crown, and uneven crown performance. Where regulated, early escalation matters.
Early warning patterns include sudden crown asymmetry, spear failure without a clear cold/wet trigger, and fermented odour or wet decay at crown base.
Trachycarpus fortunei is propagated primarily by seed, and the seed biology is the reason so many sowings feel like a gamble. Mature seeds disperse with underdeveloped embryos and respond best to a staged temperature pattern: a cold phase followed by milder conditions, then a warmer phase to trigger full emergence.
Remove fruit pulp completely. Hydrate seeds so they are evenly moist before the cold phase begins.
Hold seeds around 4 °C for about 1–3 months (longer often performs better). Use a lightly moist, airy medium in a ventilated container. It should never be wet enough to squeeze water out.
Move to roughly 15–20 °C. Early germination activity often shows here. “Root appears but no leaf” can be normal at this stage.
Shift to 25–30 °C to trigger full emergence and leaf development. This is the missing step in many stalled attempts.
Some experimental work has tested gibberellic acid (GA3) as a dormancy-breaking aid on fresh seed. It can support germination, but it doesn’t replace the later warm phase that triggers leaf emergence. If used, follow product safety instructions and treat it as optional—not required.
Trachycarpus fortunei can naturalise where winters are mild enough and sheltered, moisture-retentive microsites exist. Seedling recruitment has been documented in woodland-edge and ravine-like habitats, and dense understory stands can alter regeneration dynamics through persistent shade.
Trachycarpus comes from Greek roots meaning “rough” and “fruit,” a nod to texture. The species epithet fortunei honours Robert Fortune, the 19th-century Scottish plant collector associated with the movement of many Asian plants into Western horticulture.
Windmill palm is often treated as “just a hardy palm,” but a lot of what makes it reliable (and occasionally problematic) sits in the details: how tissues handle frost, how trunk fibre is built, and how easily seedlings can persist in sheltered ground.
The shaggy coat comes from persistent old leaf bases. It buffers the stem and contributes to durability. Anatomical work describes dense fibre architecture and silica bodies in sheath tissues.
Adult leaves can ride out serious cold when the growing point survives, but roots are far less tolerant of freezing—especially in containers. That mismatch is why pot management often decides winter outcomes.
A long trunkless juvenile phase is normal. Trunking is tied to size and age, not extra fertiliser.
Adult foliage has meaningful cold tolerance, but winter outcomes depend on wetness, wind, freeze duration, and whether roots are buffered by open ground or trapped in a pot. Leaf burn can be recoverable; bud damage and root loss are the usual end points.
Roots are more cold-sensitive than adult leaves, and pots lose heat from the sides. A container rootball can freeze through quickly, damaging the tissues that restart growth in spring.
Yes, but strong light is the limiter. Best results usually come from outdoor summer growth, then cool, bright winter holding so roots never freeze in a pot.
Usually not. Wind tearing is extremely common on fan palms. The long-term fix is calmer exposure so new leaves form cleanly.
A loose or pulled spear after a cold/wet spell is a serious warning for bud injury and rot risk. Keep crown dry and airy, remove only loose necrotic tissue, and pause feeding until clean spear movement returns.
Trachycarpus fortunei succeeds when it’s treated like a mountain-temperate palm that still wants summer water: bright light, steady growing-season moisture, and a root zone that never turns cold and airless. Winter outcomes hinge on patterns more than records—wet freezes and wind-driven desiccation do more damage than a brief dry low.
In the ground, drainage and shelter make performance predictable. In a container, keeping the rootball from freezing is the difference between a cosmetic setback and a real loss. Where fruiting plants sit near sensitive habitats, removing fruit stalks is the simple lever that prevents a garden palm from becoming a seed source.
Ready to put it into practice? See Trachycarpus fortunei here.
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