Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’

Background of Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’

One parent of Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’ comes from the Alocasia longiloba group, whose members grow in Southeast Asian rainforest, damp ravines and rocky places. The origin and ancestry of its ‘Aurora’ parent are unknown.

Growing Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’

• Space: ‘Ivory Coast’ grows vigorously and produces basal shoots, so leave room for the clump to widen.
• Stability: As the clump fills out, use a more stable pot if the plant starts to feel top-heavy. Keep the pot size close to what the roots actually need.
• Repotting: Check the roots as the clump fills the pot. Move to a wider container only when the roots and new basal shoots need more room.
• Light: A bright position works best, with shade from hot midday and afternoon sun.
• Watering: During active growth, let the upper part of the mix begin to dry, then water before the potting mix dries all the way through. Fast growth can shorten the interval, so check the mix regularly. Water until excess runs from the drainage holes. Let the pot drain, then empty any water left in the saucer or cover pot.
• Potting mix: Use a light, airy mix that drains well but does not dry too quickly while growth is vigorous.
• Temperature: Keep it around 18–29 °C and away from cold windows or draughts. Move it away from cooler spots before temperatures fall below 15 °C.
• Feeding: Feed while the plant is growing strongly, then reduce feeding when growth clearly slows.
• Humidity: Alocasia does best with medium to high humidity. Keep it in a bright spot away from heaters and air-conditioning. If the air is dry, place it near other houseplants that like similar conditions, leaving space between the leaves, or use a clean humidifier.

Problems you may see on Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’

• Several leaves yellow while the plant begins to droop: Use the moisture in the root zone to decide what comes next. A plant that has dried out heavily needs a thorough watering; one that is still wet while continuing to weaken needs its roots and base inspected instead. If neither situation fits, our yellow-leaf guide covers other likely causes.
• A new leaf unfolds with silver scars and tiny black specks: Those marks are typical of thrips feeding on young tissue. Search the newest growth and bases of the leaf stalks, isolate the plant if you find thrips, and use a treatment labelled for thrips on indoor ornamental plants. Repeat it according to the label and judge success by later leaves, because existing scars will remain.
• The leaf edges turn crisp and brown: Work backwards from recent conditions: a sharp dry-out, hot dry air or a draught can all damage the margins. Return the plant to a more even watering pattern and a less drying spot. If those factors are already under control, consider fertiliser or mineral build-up as the next thing to investigate.

Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’: toxic if chewed

• Pets: This Alocasia is toxic to cats and dogs. Keep the plant and any cut pieces where pets cannot chew them.
• Children and handling: Keep it out of reach of children. Sap from damaged tissue can irritate skin and eyes, so wash your hands after pruning and avoid touching your face.
• Why it irritates: Alocasia tissue contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Chewing or contact with sensitive tissue can cause immediate local irritation.
• Possible symptoms: Mouth exposure can cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, nausea or vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.
• After exposure: For a pet, contact a veterinarian. For a person, remove any plant material from the mouth and rinse with water; seek medical or poison-control advice if symptoms are significant. Breathing difficulty or rapidly increasing swelling needs urgent medical attention.

The parent name behind Alocasia ‘Ivory Coast’

The longiloba name in its parentage means “long-lobed”, from Latin longus, “long”, and lobus, “lobe”.