Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’

The history of Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’

Around September 1977, Paul DeCoster obtained random seedlings from Bamboo Nursery in Apopka, Florida. He grew them in Melle, Belgium, and selected the plant that became Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’. Tissue-culture propagation began around 1982.

A plant patent application was filed on 6 November 1986, and USPP6337P was published on 11 October 1988. The species and parentage of ‘Imperial Red’ remain unknown.

Everyday care for Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’

A dry, open centre. Plant in an airy medium and a freely draining pot. Direct water to the medium and keep the spaces between petiole bases dry, since the close crown dries slowly. Gentle airflow helps the centre dry after an accidental splash.

Watering by feel and weight. Reach below the surface of the medium and lift the pot. Water when the upper layer feels dry, has lost its cool dampness and the pot is noticeably lighter. A damp mix or heavy pot signals more drying time. Once the cue is clear, water thoroughly and drain fully.

Even filtered light and stable warmth. Bright filtered light supports balanced growth and protects fresh blades during a gradual acclimatisation to brighter conditions. Rotate the pot gradually when the crown develops more strongly on one side. Keep the plant warm and protected from draughts. The self-heading rosette maintains its upright form in a stable container.

Feeding and repotting to match growth. Feed modestly during active growth. Repot when roots are crowded or the broadening rosette becomes unstable, choosing a steadier container that is modestly larger and drains freely.

Cautious home propagation. Commercial production of this cultivar has used tissue culture. At home, propagate from an established offset when one appears, or from an accessible stem section with a viable node. Preserve the sole growing point; only node-bearing stem material can produce a new shoot.

Reading changes in Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’

A brown-maroon new leaf becoming greener: This is a normal age-related change. Judge each organ by its own stage: an immature petiole may combine dark green with grayed red, a mature petiole becomes dark to brownish green, and the separate petiole sheath remains red-purple.

Subtle feeding signs on dark growth: Use strong reflected light to check leaves, sheltered bases and rolled growth, where pests can be easy to miss. Pale stippling or webbing points to mites; distorted or silvered new growth with dark specks points to thrips; cottony deposits indicate mealybugs; and attached fixed bumps or sticky residue suggest scale. Isolate the plant, identify the pest and clean accessible material. Apply a suitable product labelled for the identified pest to exposed surfaces and protected feeding sites, following the label for repeat treatment.

Water in the crown or central tissue turning translucent, soft or foul: Overhead wetting, weak airflow and cold wet conditions can cause rot and collapse. Keep the crown dry, restore warmth and air movement, isolate the plant when damage spreads, and remove dead, soft tissue.

A free-standing rosette leaning or becoming unstable: One-sided light, uneven foliage, crowded roots or a light container may be responsible. Rotate gradually, inspect the pot and root space, and repot when crowding or instability is confirmed. A stable container supports the plant’s self-heading habit.

Droop with crisp tips or edges in a pot that feels light and dry: Dry roots or an incompletely wetted centre can produce these signs. Rehydrate thoroughly, make sure the centre of the root ball is wet and drain away the excess. Check moisture earlier during the next drying cycle. Continued wilt in moist medium calls for root inspection and a pause in watering during that check.

Water-soaked, haloed or dead spots that continue to spread: An advancing pattern can indicate bacterial or fungal leaf-spot disease, often encouraged by wet foliage and weak airflow. Sun, cold, spray and contact can produce fixed injuries. Isolate an advancing case, keep the foliage dry, improve airflow and remove badly affected tissue cleanly. Seek a diagnosis before using disease-specific chemicals.

Several yellowing or drooping leaves above wet, heavy medium: Prolonged saturation or poor drainage can reduce root-zone oxygen and may lead to root rot. Pause watering, clear standing water and restore open drainage. Inspect the roots when decline continues, retaining firm roots and removing dead, soft tissue. Repot into an airy, freely draining medium when the existing structure is compacted or collapsed, then align watering with the available light.

Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

Why is it called Philodendron?

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.