Philodendron ‘Corsinianum’

‘Corsinianum’ in European Horticulture

The name Philodendron × corsinianum was published in 1888 for a cultivated European garden hybrid and is currently unplaced in botanical classification. Its history is horticultural, and it has no natural native range.

Period accounts differ on its origin. One links the hybrid to Ferdinando Ragioneri at Le Cascine in Florence under A. Pucci, says it was named for Prince Corsini, and says Makoy in Liège later acquired it. Another says Makoy raised it. Its exact parentage remains unresolved.

Care for Philodendron ‘Corsinianum’

• Support: Add a stable pole, plank, trellis or similar support as the scrambling stem lengthens. Tie the stem loosely without constricting the petioles.
• Light: Provide bright filtered or indirect light and introduce stronger exposure gradually.
• Water: Let the upper layer of mix begin to dry, then water thoroughly and allow the pot to drain. Water again when the upper layer has started to dry.
• Potting mix: Use a structurally open, moisture-retentive mix that releases excess water freely.
• Growth pace: Slow extension is normal while the leaves and roots remain healthy. Keep watering and feeding moderate and use healthy new growth as the main sign that the plant is doing well.
• Temperature: Keep conditions warm and stable, preferably above about 15 °C and away from cold draughts.
• Feeding: Apply a conservative, label-led feed during active growth.
• Humidity and airflow: Ordinary to moderate household humidity is suitable with airflow. Protect the plant from extreme dry heat and avoid persistently wet foliage.

Understanding changes in ‘Corsinianum’

• Young leaves change from copper or purple to green: Coppery young growth and dull purple or wine-red undersides are normal, and the colour may fade as leaves age. Leaves at different stages show this natural colour development.
• The stem scrambles or leans outwards: The stem naturally climbs or scrambles as it grows. Add or extend a stable support and tie the stem loosely without trapping the petioles.
• Gaps between leaves lengthen while leaves become smaller: Insufficient light or weak contact with the support may be responsible. Improve filtered light and training gradually, then judge the response from new growth.
• Leaf margins turn crisp without pests: Dry roots, salt build-up, heat, dry air or excess light are possible causes. If the pot is dry and light, water thoroughly and let it drain. If the plant is hot or overexposed, move it to cooler filtered light. If the damage followed heavy feeding, pause fertiliser and flush a freely draining mix. Existing damage will not heal, so assess later leaves.
• Leaves yellow while the root ball stays wet: Pause watering and check drainage. If yellowing or wilting persists while the root ball is wet, inspect the roots. Firm roots in a freely draining mix can remain in place; wait until the upper layer reaches the usual dry cue before watering again. Replace a collapsed or slow-draining medium with fresh airy mix around the firm roots. If rot is confirmed, remove the dark, soft roots and repot only the remaining firm root system. If decay reaches the stem, take a cutting only from a firm healthy node above the damage. Discard the soft material; without a sound node above the damage, the affected plant should be discarded.
• Young growth is silvered, scarred or distorted: Silvery or bronze scarring, dark specks and distorted tissue can indicate thrips. Isolate the plant, inspect and clean it, and use a treatment labelled for thrips if they are confirmed.
• Webbing, cottony masses or sticky raised insects appear: Fine stippling with webbing suggests mites, cottony masses suggest mealybugs, and raised insects with sticky residue suggest scale. Isolate the plant, confirm the pest, clean or remove it where practical, and follow a treatment labelled for that pest.
• Wet spots expand or tissue softens: Bacterial or fungal disease is possible. Isolate the plant if the damage is wet or spreading, keep the foliage dry, remove severely affected tissue with clean tools and obtain a diagnosis before chemical use.

Philodendron ‘Corsinianum’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

Where does the name Philodendron come from?

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.