Hoya ‘Mathilde’

From a Belgian hybrid seed pod

Hoya ‘Mathilde’ began in Belgium in 1994, when Emilio Begine raised seedlings from a pod produced by an outdoor-pollinated Hoya carnosa. The pollen parent was Hoya serpens, and the same pod also produced the sibling cultivar ‘Chouke’. ‘Mathilde’ was first published as a named cultivar in 2003, followed by a fuller description in 2005.

Its parents come from contrasting Asian forest regions. Hoya carnosa grows on trees and rocks in subtropical mountain forest from southern China and Laos to southern Japan and Taiwan, generally around 200–1,200 m. Hoya serpens comes from the Himalayas and the Andaman region, where its small stems creep and root in cooler, humid forest. ‘Mathilde’ combines these backgrounds in a cultivated hybrid.

Care for supported epiphytic vines

• Light: A position with bright filtered light suits it well. Gentle morning or late-afternoon sun can support compact growth and flowering after gradual acclimation, while hot midday sun can mark the leaves.
• Water: Once the upper half of the substrate is dry and the container is noticeably lighter, soak the root ball thoroughly. Avoid repeated bone-dry periods: the small leaves and fine roots can lose water before the foliage looks severely wilted.
• Temperature and humidity: Aim for steady indoor warmth while it is actively growing. Moderate-to-high humidity supports the fine stems and aerial roots when steady air movement prevents damp, stagnant conditions.
• Propagation: Divide a healthy vine into short sections, making sure each piece has a healthy node and growth point. Seedlings are genetically different plants and do not reproduce the cultivar.

Solving common problems with Hoya ‘Mathilde’

• Marks that resemble pests: The stable silver flecks inherited from its Hoya carnosa parent are normal. Fine moving dots, webbing, irregular stippling, sticky residue, cottony clusters or distorted new leaves suggest mites, scale or mealybugs. Inspect the crowded nodes and leaf undersides with a hand lens and isolate the plant. Remove small colonies with a damp swab or gentle rinse, then use a suitable houseplant pest treatment according to its label. Recheck hidden nodes as new insects hatch.
• Wrinkled or limp leaves: Check the potting mix and roots before watering. A dry, lightweight pot points to underwatering; damp mix with soft, dark or hollow roots points to root damage. Rehydrate a dry but healthy root ball thoroughly. Remove dead roots and replace collapsed, wet mix when roots are failing.
• Yellow leaves or stalled growth: Persistent wetness, compact substrate, cold roots or accumulated fertiliser salts are common causes. Improve drainage and airflow around the roots, let the mix partly dry and rinse it with plain water. Do not add more fertiliser until healthy growth resumes.
• Dry tips, leaf drop or failed buds: Hot dry air, a fully dry root ball, intense unacclimated sun or abrupt changes while buds are forming can trigger damage. Move it away from heat, restore steadier moisture and change light gradually. Keep healthy flower spurs even if a cluster drops. Translucent, dark or collapsed tissue after contact with cold glass or a draught is chilling damage. Keep the plant warm; if dieback continues from the base, restart a firm healthy node.

Hoya ‘Mathilde’ is non-toxic to people and pets

• This plant is non-toxic to people, cats and dogs.
• Chewing a large amount can still cause an upset stomach.
• If a large amount is eaten and symptoms continue, contact a veterinarian or medical professional.

What does Hoya mean, and who first published it?

Hoya honours the English gardener Thomas Hoy.

Robert Brown established the genus Hoya in 1810 in Prodromus Florae Novae Hollandiae, page 459.