Epiphyllum chrysocardium

Natural range and habitat of Epiphyllum chrysocardium

Epiphyllum chrysocardium comes from southeastern Mexico, including Chiapas and Tabasco, where it grows in tropical forest with a seasonal dry period.

You may also see this species labelled Selenicereus chrysocardium. This is an older name for the same plant.

Care for Epiphyllum chrysocardium

• Light: Give bright filtered light with good air movement. Introduce gentle sun gradually; strong sun can scorch stems that have been growing in shade.
• Temperature and humidity: Keep temperatures around 18–28 °C. Avoid prolonged temperatures below 10 °C. Aim for a humid 60–80% range, paired with gentle circulation around the foliage. Keep it warm and humid while it is producing new stems. When buds begin to develop, keep it at 14–16 °C or warmer and protect it from cold nights.
• Water and feeding: Water generously as the stems lengthen and feed regularly, following a moderate dose. Let excess water drain after each watering.
• Potting mix: Mix organic material with grit, pumice or another coarse ingredient so plenty of air can still reach the roots.
• Container and support: Keep it in a snug pot. Because the stems can become long and broad, give the plant a sturdy hanging basket, trellis or other support.
• Flowering pause: After the strongest stem growth has finished, water much less for four to six weeks and pause feeding. Keep the mix slightly moist. Once buds appear, water a little more and keep the plant warm.
• Repotting: Repot when the mix has broken down or compacted, water drains more slowly, or the pot becomes unstable under the weight of the stems. Keep the new pot fairly small.
• Propagation and renewal: If lower stems become old and woody, take healthy upper sections as cuttings. The old base may also send up fresh shoots. Allow the cut end of a healthy stem to dry, then root it in a loose mix. Water carefully until new growth appears.

Common problems with Epiphyllum chrysocardium

• Glassy or translucent patches along the stem margins: Cold exposure can damage this warmth-loving species. Move it to a warmer position and reduce watering slightly. Remove any section that turns soft or dies back.
• Stems yellow after repotting: Root disturbance, a dense wet mix or an abrupt change in watering can all contribute. Check how quickly the mix is drying before watering again. If it stays wet for long periods, move the plant into a coarser mix with more air around the roots. Wait until the plant starts growing again before feeding.
• New stems are vigorous but buds never appear: Continuous watering and feeding after strong stem growth can delay bud formation. For four to six weeks after the strongest stem growth, water less than usual and pause feeding. Once buds appear, increase watering a little and keep the plant at 14–16°C or warmer.
• Soft black tissue or a sour-smelling root ball: Prolonged wetness or a dense mix can cause root or stem rot. Lift the plant from the pot and inspect the base and roots. Use a clean blade to remove every soft black section, cutting back until the tissue is firm and healthy. Throw away the damaged pieces and let the cuts dry. Repot the rooted plant in a fresh, coarse mix, or root healthy stem sections separately as cuttings.

Keep Epiphyllum chrysocardium away from children and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its effects after chewing or swallowing are unclear, and plant material can still cause an upset stomach.
• Contact a veterinarian or medical professional if symptoms develop or do not settle.

Where does the name Epiphyllum chrysocardium come from?

Epiphyllum combines Greek epi, meaning upon, with phyllon, meaning leaf. Chrysocardium combines Greek chrysos, meaning gold, with kardia, meaning heart.

Adrian Hardy Haworth established the genus Epiphyllum in 1812 in Synopsis Plantarum Succulentarum, page 197.

Edward Johnston Alexander first described Epiphyllum chrysocardium in 1956 in Cactus and Succulent Journal (Los Angeles), volume 28, page 4.