Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

Origin of Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’ is associated with the Henderson’s Pride horticultural line linked to Keith Henderson. The original Henderson’s Pride plant was green and unvariegated, and Ring of Fire is a later variegated form in that line.

The selector and date of the variegated clone are unknown.

Care and growing conditions for Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

• Leaf clearance: Keep clips, walls and neighbouring foliage away from each opening leaf because the deep teeth and lobes catch easily while they are soft.
• Support with age: Young plants often stand on their own. Add a stake or pole only when the stem lengthens enough to lean.
• Light: Give bright filtered light and introduce any direct sun gradually to protect the cream and yellow areas.
• Water and mix: Water thoroughly after part of the potting mix has dried, using a chunky aroid mix that stays open and drains freely.
• Temperature and humidity: Keep ‘Ring of Fire’ at about 18–29 °C, moving it away from prolonged cold before temperatures remain below 15 °C. An ambient humidity level of 50–60% is suitable.
• Feeding: Feed with complete houseplant fertiliser at moderate strength during active growth and reduce applications when the plant slows down.
• Repotting: Move into a slightly larger pot only when roots fill the current one. If drainage slows because the mix has broken down, renew the mix in the existing pot if it still fits the roots. If the plant becomes unstable, secure the pot without unnecessarily increasing root volume.
• Propagation: Separate basal growth once rooted, or use a healthy stem cutting with at least one node.

Common issues in Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

• A tooth or lobe tears during unfurling: Clear clips and neighbouring leaves from the next opening blade and keep moisture reasonably steady while it expands. If a tear is accompanied by silver scars or black specks, inspect the fold for thrips. Isolate a confirmed infestation and use an indoor-ornamental thrips treatment whose current label covers that pest, following the label directions.
• One leaf is much greener or paler than the last: Variegation can shift sharply between nodes. Compare several new leaves before pruning healthy growth, and keep productive green tissue while you judge the trend.
• Cream or yellow tissue turns dry and tan: Move the plant away from strong sun or hot glass when the exposed side is affected. If the root ball is very dry, soak it thoroughly and check moisture sooner on the next cycle. Remove clips or neighbouring foliage when the damage follows a rubbing point.
• Fine bronzing or webbing appears between the lobes: Use magnification on sheltered undersides to look for spider mites. Once mites are confirmed, isolate the plant, rinse both leaf surfaces where practical and use a treatment currently labelled for spider mites, following the label for repeats.
• The plant droops in a pot that stays wet: Pause watering and check whether runoff can leave the container. If roots are clearly mushy, decayed or foul-smelling, use disinfected scissors to cut only the rotten sections back to firm tissue and discard them. Keep all firm roots, including dark ones, and repot into fresh, airy mix if needed; the root-rot guide gives the full rescue sequence.

Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

How did Philodendron get its name?

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.