Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’

Origin of Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’

In September 1977, Paul DeCoster obtained several hundred random seedlings. He grew and evaluated them in Melle, Belgium, where he discovered and selected the plant that became Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’.

Propagation through tissue culture began around 1982. The plant’s parentage remains unknown.

Everyday care for Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’

Light and growing space. Place the plant in bright filtered light with open space around its free-standing rosette. Let the compact crown maintain its natural self-supporting form.

Rotation and sun exposure. Rotate the pot gradually for even exposure. Increase the light carefully when moving the plant to brighter conditions and shield it from intense sun.

Warmth. Keep Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’ around 18–29 °C and avoid prolonged conditions below 15 °C. Protect the plant from cold draughts.

Humidity. As a practical humidity target, use approximately 50–60% as the humidity target.

When to water. Pay close attention to the compact root ball. Feel below the surface of the potting mix and lift the pot to judge its weight. Water it only when the upper layer feels dry, has lost its cool dampness and the pot is noticeably lighter. Water the mix thoroughly, let all excess drain and empty collected water.

Keep the crown dry. Direct water onto the potting mix and keep the tight centre dry.

Potting mix. Use a bark-based mix opened up with gritty material so air can reach the roots. Aim for free drainage with enough moisture retention to keep the roots from drying abruptly.

Feeding. During active growth, use houseplant fertiliser sparingly and taper feeding when new leaves or stems stop advancing.

Repotting. Give the roots more space once they crowd the pot, using a container only slightly larger. A full root ball, noticeably slower drainage or poor pot stability are the cues to repot.

Propagation: To propagate ‘Imperial Green’, once a basal shoot has roots it can be separated; healthy stem sections with an active node can also establish.

Changes in Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’ and what they mean

A tightly grouped centre: Close central growth is normal for this self-heading plant. Keep the centre intact and let the rosette maintain its free-standing form.

A pinkish sheath or red-purple flower bud: These colours can be normal when the tissue remains firm. A sheath or bud that becomes soft, wet or foul-smelling, especially as damage spreads, can indicate rot. Isolate the plant, keep the centre dry, improve warmth and airflow, and remove dead, soft tissue.

A rosette leaning to one side or making the pot unstable: Uneven light, asymmetrical foliage, crowded roots or a light container can each contribute. Rotate the pot gradually and check its stability and root space. Repot when crowding or instability confirms the need, choosing a stable container that supports the self-heading crown.

Pest signs hidden in the crown: Stippling or webbing can indicate mites, cottony deposits mealybugs, fixed bumps scale, and silvering with dark specks thrips; sticky residue with clustered visible insects can also point to aphids. Isolate the plant, identify the pest and clean accessible material. Use a suitable product labelled for that pest on exposed surfaces, leaf undersides, sheltered crown tissue and leaf-base sites. Follow the label for repeat treatment.

Advancing water-soaked, haloed or dead spots: An advancing pattern can indicate bacterial or fungal leaf-spot disease, often encouraged by wet foliage and weak airflow. Sun, cold, spray and physical contact can leave fixed marks. Isolate an advancing case, keep the crown and leaves dry, improve airflow and remove badly affected tissue cleanly. Obtain a diagnosis before applying any disease-specific chemical.

Crisp tips or edges and droop when the pot is light and dry: Dry roots or incomplete wetting can cause this response. Water until the whole root ball, including its centre, is rehydrated, then drain it fully and begin checking sooner. Continued wilt in moist medium calls for a root inspection and a pause in watering.

Yellowing or droop with wet, heavy medium: Prolonged saturation or poor drainage can reduce root-zone oxygen and may lead to root rot. Pause watering, remove standing water and clear the drainage path. Inspect the roots when decline persists, retaining firm roots and removing dead, soft tissue. Repot into an airy, freely draining mix when the medium has become compacted or collapsed, then align watering with the available light.

Philodendron ‘Imperial Green’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

Who first published Philodendron, and what does the name mean?

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.