Melissa officinalis

Melissa officinalis - lemon balm for fresh leaves, tea, and a lively summer herb patch

Melissa officinalis is grown for harvest: fresh, lemon-scented leaves that come back quickly after cutting. It forms a leafy clump and can spread by roots and seed if left to its own devices. Moisture supports lush growth, while very dry soil turns leaves smaller and more pungent. Flowering stems attract insects, but trimming them keeps the plant focused on leaf production. In pots, regular watering is the main requirement; feeding can stay light.

It’s a generous herb: brilliant when you want lots to pick, less brilliant if you let it wander. Expect it to self-seed in open soil and to broaden from the base over time. If you want lemon balm without surprise seedlings, containment is the simplest win.

Size, habit, and what you’ll see through the year

Leaf growth starts early, builds into a rounded mound, and keeps coming after each cut-back. Flowering usually runs in summer. In winter, top growth dies back and the plant rests; new shoots push again from the base once temperatures rise.

• Mature size: often 40 to 80 cm tall in leaf, up to ~90 cm in flower; allow roughly 40 to 60 cm spread per clump.
• Growth style: herbaceous perennial; dies back in winter and reshoots from the crown.
• Scent: fresh lemon when leaves are handled; strongest on young growth.

Site and soil that keep it productive

Sun to light shade both suit lemon balm. In full sun it stays dense, but in hot, dry spells it appreciates soil that holds moisture without staying waterlogged. Light shade is useful in exposed spots where afternoon heat bakes the ground.

Aim for a reasonably open, humus-rich soil: compost in the planting area helps. Turning the bed into a sponge often leads to weak growth and leaf marking. Where water sits for long periods in cold months, crowns can sulk and losses are more likely.

Planting and the first season

Give each plant a wide planting hole, loosen the surrounding soil, and set the crown level with the surface. Water in deeply, then keep moisture steady for the first weeks so roots spread out. If water is applied only close to the stem, the outer root zone stays dry and the plant can stall in warm spells.

A light mulch around the plant (not piled on the crown) buffers drying winds and reduces the wet - dry swing that can stall young plantings. Once established, lemon balm copes with short dry periods, but it stays most productive with regular moisture.

Harvesting and cut-back

Pick tips and young leaves often. Regular harvesting keeps stems branching and delays the tired, leggy look older clumps can get by late summer. If flowering starts and you prefer leaves over seed, cut stems back after bloom; fresh shoots follow quickly.

For a big reset, shear the plant back to a low framework and water well. New growth is usually fragrant and softer in typical garden conditions.

Keeping it contained (optional, but often smart)

In loose, fertile soil, lemon balm can self-seed freely. A pot, a raised bed, or a defined herb patch keeps it where you want it. Removing flower stems before seed set reduces seedlings, especially near paths and gravel.

Problems you might actually see

Crowded growth plus humid weather can bring powdery mildew or leaf spotting. Better airflow, an occasional cut-back, and watering at soil level usually improves the foliage. Aphids can cluster on soft tips; a firm rinse or a tidy cut-back is often enough.

Growing Melissa officinalis in containers

A pot gives you control and makes harvesting easy. Use a mix that drains but doesn’t dry in hours, and water thoroughly whenever the top layer dries. In containers, summer heat and wind dry the root zone much faster than beds, so check moisture more often.

This listing includes three plants, which makes it easy to split roles: one for steady harvest, one near seating for the scent, and one kept contained where it can’t roam.

Flavour, harvest timing, and how to keep leaves tender

For the cleanest lemon scent, harvest young leaves before flowering, ideally in the morning once the plant is dry. New growth is softer and usually aromatic in typical garden conditions.

If you want a steady supply, cut a few stems back at a time. Stripping one plant bare can undo the benefits of good drainage and light. Leaving some leaf area helps the crown keep pushing new shoots without stalling.

Lemon balm is also a good drying herb: hang small bunches in a shaded, airy place, then store the dried leaves in a sealed jar. Dried leaf tends to be stronger than fresh, so a little goes a long way in tea.

• Harvest cue: pick tips regularly; heavy one-off harvests are best followed by a thorough watering.
• Leaf quality: softer, greener leaves usually mean the plant is getting enough moisture and not too much heat stress.
• If flavour seems weak: cut back hard and wait for fresh shoots. Very rich, constantly damp soil can push soft growth and shorten plant life.

Renewing older plants and managing size

Over time, lemon balm can develop a woody centre and a ring of newer shoots around the outside. A hard cut-back after flowering often rejuvenates it, but very old clumps can also be lifted and divided.

Division is also the cleanest way to reset the plant’s footprint: replant one strong section and compost the rest. Very rich, constantly damp soil can push soft growth and shorten plant life.

Placement ideas (where it’s useful, not just where it fits)

Place a plant near a path or seating where you’ll brush past it and notice the scent. In a kitchen garden, it’s practical near the door because harvest is quick and the leaves don’t bruise badly in transit.

Because it’s vigorous, it also serves as a ‘filler’ in larger herb beds - just keep an edge on it and remove seedlings where you don’t want them.

Winter notes for pots and exposed sites

In-ground plants are generally hardy. In pots, roots cool faster, so a larger container and a sheltered position improve winter survival. Keep the mix just barely moist in dry winters; bone-dry pots can stress the crown even when it’s dormant.

In very windy gardens, growth can look ragged by late summer. A mid-season cut-back usually produces a cleaner second flush of leaves.

Spacing and using three plants

Spacing depends on how you plan to cut it. For individual clumps that keep a rounded shape, allow roughly 40 to 60 cm between plants. For a fuller, faster patch, closer spacing is fine as long as you cut back occasionally to keep airflow moving through the leaves.

With three plants you can also stagger harvest: cut one hard, keep one lightly picked, and let one flower for a few weeks - then rotate.

Harvest little and often to keep plants dense. Heavy feeding can push softer growth; a modest, steady base produces better structure and scent. A cut-back after flowering keeps leaves fresh for picking and reduces mildew pressure in humid spells.