Citrus × latifolia (Lime)

The early history of Persian Lime

The exact origin of Persian or Tahiti Lime remains uncertain. The name Tahiti comes from its introduction to California from Tahiti during the nineteenth century, while the origin of the name Persian is less clear.

The type was reported in Florida by 1883 and later became an important commercial lime. Selected plants have been propagated to maintain its familiar nearly seedless form.

Growing Persian Lime indoors

• Light: Give the expanding crown the brightest practical position, with strong direct sun and supplementary light where indoor light is limited. Introduce outdoor sun in stages after indoor growth.
• Warmth and humidity: Persian Lime prefers warmth. When growth slows in lower light, keep it bright and frost-free. In heated rooms, keep humidity moderate and place the crown away from direct hot airflow.
• Watering: A leafy, fruiting plant can use water quickly. Rewater after the surface dries and the deeper mix becomes lightly moist, then let the pot drain freely. Cooler temperatures, dimmer light and recent repotting slow the drying rate.
• Pot and mix: Use an airy citrus or loam-based mix that drains evenly. Move to a larger pot when roots have filled the current one; refresh compacted mix if water begins moving through the pot unevenly.
• Feeding and pruning: Feed while shoots or fruit are developing, following the citrus-fertiliser label. Once new growth has firmed up, shorten selected upright or spreading stems to keep the crown manageable.

Persian Lime problems to catch early

• Leaves wilt while the pot still feels heavy: Saturated or compacted mix can impair root function and leave the crown short of water. Check the roots themselves: healthy tissue should stay firm, while soft brown roots or a sour odour point to decay. Using clean, disinfected tools, cut away soft or rotten tissue back to firm, healthy tissue and discard the removed material. Replace compacted mix with a fresh, open mix that drains freely if necessary. Use the root-rot guide if rot is confirmed.
• Leaf margins brown after repeated feeding: Fertiliser salts can accumulate around fine roots and scorch the edges. Pause feeding and make sure drainage is open. Once you have ruled out root rot, water the mix thoroughly with clean water and let it drain.
• Young fruit drops during a dry spell: A fruiting lime can shed more of its crop when the potting mix becomes severely dry or conditions change suddenly. Restore even moisture, let excess water drain fully, then keep light and temperature stable while the plant recovers.
• Sticky leaves or firmly attached brown bumps develop: Inspect stems and leaf undersides for scale insects. Isolate the plant, remove insects you can see and clean honeydew from the foliage. If treatment is necessary, use a product labelled for scale on the plant and repeat it only as instructed on the label. The scale guide can help confirm the pest.

If the cause is still unclear, send us clear photos of the whole plant, the affected area and the potting mix so we can help you narrow it down.

Keep Citrus × latifolia (Lime) away from pets

• The fruit flesh is edible, while leaves, peel and other plant material can irritate cats and dogs.
• These parts contain essential oils and psoralens that may cause vomiting, stomach pain, unusual tiredness or skin irritation.
• Contact a veterinarian if a pet chews the plant or develops symptoms. Seek medical advice if a person becomes unwell after exposure.

How did Citrus × latifolia get its name?

Citrus is the classical Latin name used for citron and related citrus plants. Latifolia combines Latin latus, broad, with folium, leaf, and describes the species’ broad leaf blades.

Carl Linnaeus established the genus Citrus in 1753 in Species Plantarum, page 782.

Tyōzaburō Tanaka first described it as Citrus × aurantiifolia var. latifolia in 1930 in Studia Citrologica, volume 3, issue 2, page 183. Yuichirō Tanaka later placed it in Citrus as Citrus × latifolia in 1951 in Systema Pomologicum, page 140.