Philodendron ‘White Princess’

Cultivated origin of Philodendron ‘White Princess’

Philodendron ‘White Princess’ was already in cultivation in Florida by September 2020, when it was used in the breeding work that produced the later ‘White Ice’ selection.

Growing Philodendron ‘White Princess’ as a houseplant

• Guide the compact stem when it starts to lengthen: Place a vertical support beside the stem as gaps between leaves become more visible. Tie the stem only, leaving leaf stalks and new leaves free to unfold.
• Give the white and pink areas filtered light: Strong indirect light suits the plant, but a sudden move into hot direct sun can mark pale tissue. Increase exposure in stages after changing position.
• Temperature and drying after watering: Warm, stable conditions around 18–29 °C suit it; 15 °C is the lower limit for prolonged exposure. Protect the growing point from cold draughts and cold glass. Gentle airflow helps moisture dry from the short stem and leaf sheaths after watering or cleaning.
• Humidity: Keep relative humidity near 50–60% for routine growth.
• Rewater a partly dry root ball thoroughly: When the upper mix has dried and the pot is lighter, wet the full root ball and let the excess escape. Empty any collected water after the pot has drained.
• Potting mix: Use a loose potting mix that drains freely.
• Feed while new leaves are forming: Feed lightly during active growth. Reduce or pause feeding when new leaf growth slows.
• Repot from root and drainage cues: Move up a pot only when roots are crowded or drainage has slowed because the mix has broken down.
• Propagation: Take a vigorous stem piece with at least one node, keeping any useful aerial root attached.

What changes in Philodendron ‘White Princess’ can mean

• One new leaf is greener than expected: Variegation can change between leaves. Observe several nodes before pruning; a single green-dominant leaf does not show that the entire stem has changed.
• A shoot produces almost entirely white leaves: Keep very pale growth attached to healthy green tissue while it remains firm. If successive leaves stay almost white and the shoot weakens, cut back to a healthy node that includes green stem tissue.
• A folded leaf opens scarred or misshapen: Physical rubbing and thrips feeding can look similar. Inspect the folded leaf and sheath for living thrips, black specks and new silvery scars without forcing them open. Remove obstructions if the damage is mechanical. If thrips are confirmed, isolate the plant, remove accessible insects and use only a locally authorised treatment for thrips on indoor ornamentals. Treat soft or folded growth only where the label expressly permits it, and follow its application sites, dose and repeat interval.
• Leaves yellow while the mix stays wet: Stop adding water, pour away runoff and check that the pot can drain. If yellowing continues, inspect the root ball; leave all firm roots intact and cut only clearly rotten, soft sections back to healthy tissue with disinfected scissors. Discard the decay and repot in fresh, airy mix if the existing substrate has broken down or stays waterlogged. If decay has removed nearly all roots, keep a sound node-bearing stem section and root that piece in fresh, clean potting mix. When no firm root and no healthy node remain after decay is removed, discard what is left.
• A pale mark becomes wet and spreads: Fixed sun or contact injury should stop changing. If a water-soaked or yellow-edged margin advances, isolate the plant, keep leaves dry, improve airflow and seek a diagnosis before using a disease-specific treatment.

Philodendron ‘White Princess’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

How the name Philodendron came about

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.