Philodendron ‘White Princess’

Cultivated background of Philodendron ‘White Princess’

‘White Princess’ is a cultivated white-variegated Philodendron. White Princess material was already in cultivation in Florida by September 2020, when it was used in the breeding work that produced the later ‘White Ice’ selection.

Growing Philodendron ‘White Princess’ as a houseplant

• Guide the compact stem when it starts to lengthen: Place a vertical support beside the stem as internodes become more visible. Tie the stem only, leaving petioles and new leaves free to unfold.
• Give the white and pink areas filtered light: Strong indirect light suits the plant, but a sudden move into hot direct sun can mark pale tissue. Increase exposure in stages after changing position.
• Rewater a partly dry root ball thoroughly: When the upper mix has dried and the pot is lighter, wet the full root ball and let the excess escape. Do not leave runoff standing around the roots.
• Keep tender new growth warm and dry after wetting: Protect the growing point from cold draughts and cold glass. Gentle airflow helps moisture leave the short nodes and sheaths after watering or cleaning.
• Repot from root and drainage cues: Move up a pot only when roots are crowded or drainage has slowed because the mix has broken down.
• Feed while new leaves are forming: Use the dose and interval on the fertiliser label during active growth. Reduce or pause feeding when leaf production slows.

What changes in Philodendron ‘White Princess’ can mean

• One new leaf is greener than expected: Variegation can change between leaves. Observe several nodes before pruning; a single green-dominant leaf does not show that the entire stem has changed.
• A shoot produces almost entirely white leaves: Keep very pale growth attached to healthy green tissue while it remains firm. If successive leaves stay almost white and the shoot weakens, cut back to a healthy node that includes green stem tissue.
• A folded leaf opens scarred or misshapen: Rubbing and thrips feeding can look similar. Check the sheath and still-folded growth for black specks or insects. If the damage is mechanical, give the next unfurling leaf more space. If thrips are present, isolate the plant, remove the insects you can reach and apply a houseplant product labelled for thrips, following the label for repeat treatment.
• Leaves yellow while the mix stays wet: Stop adding water, pour away runoff and check that the pot can drain. If yellowing continues, inspect the root ball; leave firm roots intact, remove soft dead roots, and repot in an open mix when the existing substrate has collapsed or stays waterlogged. If decay has removed nearly all roots, keep a sound node-bearing stem section and root that piece in fresh, clean potting mix. When no firm root and no healthy node remain after decay is removed, discard what is left.
• A pale mark becomes wet and spreads: Fixed sun or contact injury should stop changing. If a water-soaked or yellow-edged margin advances, isolate the plant, keep leaves dry, improve airflow and seek a diagnosis before using a disease-specific treatment.

Philodendron ‘White Princess’ is toxic to people and pets

• Keep this plant away from children, cats and dogs.
• Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth, throat, skin and eyes.
• Chewing may cause burning pain, drooling, swelling, vomiting or difficulty swallowing. Contact a veterinarian or medical professional after exposure, especially if swelling or breathing problems occur.

How the name Philodendron came about

Philodendron combines Greek philein, meaning “to love,” with dendron, meaning “tree.”

Heinrich Wilhelm Schott established the genus Philodendron in 1829 in Wiener Zeitschrift für Kunst, Literatur, Theater und Mode, volume 3, page 780.