Spring Reset: How to Reboot Your Indoor Jungle After Winter
- Foliage Factory
- 3 days ago
- 18 min read
The Indoor Jungle Wake-Up Call
After months of dim skies, dry air, and slower growth, your plants might be looking a little… tired. Some have stretched awkwardly toward the light. Others have yellowed or dropped a few leaves. A few might be sitting in overly compacted soil. And almost everyone—plants included—could use a fresh start.
Spring is the season when houseplant care advice tends to echo one familiar phrase: “Time to repot!” But what if that’s not always true?
This article isn't about following seasonal trends—it’s about giving you the real tools, science, and reasoning to reboot your indoor jungle effectively. Whether you're tending to trailing Pothos, jungle cacti, delicate Calatheas or resilient ZZs, the goal is simple: help your plants bounce back based on how they actually grow, not outdated gardening rules.
Contents:
What Actually Happens to Houseplants in Winter
Let’s clear up the biggest misconception right away: most tropical houseplants don’t go dormant. They slow down in response to changes we create indoors—shorter days, cooler air, less light, and inconsistent watering—not because they’re genetically wired for winter rest.
ℹ️ Dormancy vs. Environmental Response: Key Difference
In traditional gardening, dormancy refers to a physiological shutdown driven by seasonal cues (like in deciduous trees or hardy perennials). But most common houseplants—Monstera, Philodendron, Hoya, Calathea, ferns, indoor palms—come from tropical or subtropical regions where seasons look very different.
➜ In their natural environments:
There’s no winter with freezing temps.
Light hours are fairly consistent year-round (especially near the equator).
Growth slows mainly due to drought, cloud cover, or other environmental pressure—not calendar seasons.
➜ What actually happens indoors in winter is:
Lower light levels from shorter days and sun angle
Cooler room temps, especially at night or near windows
Drier air from heating systems
Disrupted watering routines due to slower evaporation
Result? Many plants adjust—not fully shut down. Think of it more like "energy-saving mode" than dormancy.
➜ Examples by Plant Type
Plant Type | Likely Winter Behavior Indoors |
|---|---|
Aroids (Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium) | Slowed but not dormant. Growth may stretch or pause depending on light. |
Hoyas | Minimal growth if light drops too low. Many stay static but healthy. |
Ferns | Sensitive to dry air; often drop fronds or develop crispy edges. |
Calatheas/Goeppertias | Leaf curling or browning from humidity drop—not seasonal dormancy. |
Succulents (arid) | Can enter semi-dormant state indoors; less water uptake, prone to rot if overwatered. |
Succulents (jungle, e.g., Epiphyllum) | Still want moisture but slower metabolism—rot risk increases in cold/dark. |
Indoor Palms (Areca, Parlor) | Sensitive to dry air; growth slows significantly if light drops too much. |
Cacti | Some (like desert cacti) do slow down sharply and benefit from cool, dry rest—but still need light. |
📌 It's Not the Calendar—It’s the Conditions
This isn’t just semantics. If your plants were grown under stable warmth and consistent light all year, they'd keep growing. Many greenhouse-grown specimens do exactly that.
This explains why some of your plants might look totally fine right now, while others seem scraggly: it’s about how well you mimicked their preferred climate—not whether spring has arrived.
Spring Light Reset: It’s Not Just Brighter—It’s Different
As the sun climbs higher and days get longer, the quality, direction, and intensity of light indoors change dramatically. That’s not just a nice side effect—it’s a major environmental shift your plants notice long before you do.
If your Monstera starts putting out bigger leaves, your Hoya wakes up from its stubborn pause, or your succulents perk up overnight, that’s no coincidence. They’re responding to stronger light cues.
ℹ️ Why Spring Light Feels So Different Indoors
Between autumn and spring, the sun's path moves lower across the sky in winter, then gradually lifts higher as spring progresses. This shift changes:
The direction of sunlight: Winter light often comes in low and sideways, hitting further into the room.
The intensity of rays: As the sun angle increases, the light becomes stronger and more vertical, intensifying near windows.
Duration: Spring easily adds 2–3 extra hours of daylight over winter. Plants notice this long before we do.
These changes can alter the effectiveness of your plant placements—what worked in January might now be suboptimal, or even too intense by April.
ℹ️ How Plants React to Spring Light
Depending on their origin and current state, plants might:
Resume active growth (especially if temperature and nutrients are also aligned)
Produce larger leaves or longer stems
Stretch less and instead start building more compact growth
Sun-stress if suddenly exposed to intense direct light without acclimation
Important: If you use grow lights, they should also follow this seasonal shift—consider extending photoperiods or adjusting placement.
💡 What to Do: Light Adjustments in Spring
Reassess every plant’s position, especially those near windows or in low-light corners. Here’s your practical checklist:
Plants in South- or West-Facing Windows:
Check for signs of sun stress: scorched edges, bleached spots, leaf curl.
Consider pulling plants back 30–50 cm from the window or adding sheer curtains.
Rotate 90° weekly for even growth.
Plants in North or East Windows:
Many now get better-quality morning light.
Great time to move light-hungry plants (e.g. succulents, Ficus, Hoya) here from dim winter spots.
Plants That Were Far from Windows:
If growth paused, consider moving closer now that the light is stronger.
Watch for changes in internode length—compact growth is a good sign the new spot works.
Grow Light Users:
Increase photoperiod gradually to 12–14 hours for tropicals.
Consider adding a timer to automate this shift.
Raise lights if growth is suddenly accelerating or legginess stops abruptly.
➜ Example-Based Adjustments:
Plant | Winter Setup | Spring Shift Suggestion |
|---|---|---|
Monstera deliciosa | 1.5 m from west window | Move to 1 m or rotate weekly |
Hoya carnosa | North-facing shelf | Shift to east window or extend grow light exposure |
Alocasia zebrina | Bright corner with sheer curtain | Leave as-is, but check for upright leaf posture—a good sign |
Sansevieria (Dracaena) | Far corner | May stay, but watch for new growth starting—consider slight move if too slow |
Jungle cacti (Rhipsalis, Lepismium) | Hanging in low light | Benefit from east or dappled morning sun now |
Pruning, Cleaning & Reshaping: Prepping Plants for a Comeback
If winter left your plants looking stretched, uneven, or dusty—it’s not just a cosmetic issue. Spring is the best time to reset their structure, remove non-functional growth, and allow light and nutrients to reach areas where they’ll actually make a difference.
This isn’t about chasing perfection or cutting everything back. It’s about strategic intervention—working with how plants grow hormonally and structurally to improve their resilience, appearance, and health.
ℹ️ Why Prune in Spring?
Growth hormones shift in spring. Cytokinin production increases in roots, triggering branching and upward growth. Pruning now leverages this hormonal upswing.
Cutting encourages compact shape by redirecting auxins (growth hormones) to lateral nodes instead of just the apex.
Damaged leaves and leggy stems steal energy. They photosynthesize poorly, and removing them helps redirect nutrients.
➜ What You Should Prune Now
Target | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
Leggy growth | Often formed during low-light winter months. Pruning improves shape and branching. |
Dead/dying leaves | These can harbor pathogens and pests. Always remove. |
Spent flower stalks | On Hoyas, leave peduncles. On Anthuriums or Orchids, remove if fully dried. |
Old or broken stems | If they’re no longer producing leaves or are snapped, cut back to the base or a healthy node. |
💡 Reshaping Tips by Plant Type
Aroids (Monstera, Philodendron)
Cut just above a node with aerial roots.
These cuts can become new propagation points or branch into two new vines.
For tall climbers, top cuts encourage lower shoots.
Hoyas
Do not cut peduncles unless dried and brown—they rebloom from the same spot.
Lightly prune leggy stems; this encourages fuller growth and helps train shape.
Calatheas, Ferns
Don’t prune healthy foliage.
Remove only dead, brown-edged, or crispy leaves at the base—no halfway trimming.
Succulents
Remove etiolated tips (stretched, pale growth).
Let the cut end callous for a few days if propagating.
Palms
Never cut healthy green fronds—only remove entirely yellow/brown fronds.
Cutting green ones stresses the plant.
➜ Spring Cleaning: Why It’s Not Just for You
Dust buildup on leaves acts like sunscreen—blocking essential light for photosynthesis. It also makes it harder to spot early signs of pests or fungal issues.
✔ Cleaning checklist:
Use a soft, damp microfiber cloth to gently wipe smooth leaves.
For textured or fuzzy-leaved plants (like ferns or some begonias), use a soft brush or blow gently with air.
Avoid soap unless the plant had pests—residue can clog stomata.
Don’t use leaf shine products. Ever.
💡 Shaping without Shears: Training and Support
Sometimes the fix isn’t cutting, but guiding growth.
Use moss poles, trellises, or stakes for climbing or vining plants.
Tie back floppy stems on ferns or palms to regain form without removing healthy tissue.
For top-heavy pots, adjust weight or repot into heavier containers (more on this later).
Repotting vs. Substrate Refresh: What Your Roots Really Need
Spring tends to trigger a repotting frenzy. Instagram is full of people flipping plants out of pots “because it’s spring.” But for most indoor plants, repotting isn’t seasonal—it’s situational. And doing it blindly can backfire.
Let’s break down how to read your plants' root health, when to refresh soil, and when a full repot is truly needed.
❌ Myth: “Spring Is the Best Time to Repot Everything”
This idea stems from outdoor gardening, where perennials, bulbs, and shrubs wake from true dormancy and benefit from root loosening. But most indoor tropicals don’t go dormant—they just slow down because of your home’s conditions.
Repotting stresses a plant. If it’s healthy and showing signs of growth, don’t interrupt it without a reason. Plants don’t grow by calendar—they grow by light, temperature, and resources.
➜ When You Should Fully Repot
Symptom | What It Means |
|---|---|
Roots growing out of drainage holes or circling inside pot | Rootbound: plant outgrew container. |
Water rushes through too quickly or pools on top | Substrate is compacted or degraded. |
Smell of rot or mold, even when soil is dry | Anaerobic soil, potential root rot. |
Soil remains wet >5 days despite warmth and light | Poor drainage, low oxygen, unhealthy substrate. |
The plant is unstable and leaning | Root-to-pot ratio is off; needs firmer anchor. |
If you tick one or more of these, a full repot is likely helpful.
➜ When to Just Refresh the Substrate
Most plants don’t need full root disruption. You can often remove the top few centimeters of depleted substrate and replace it with fresh mix.
Best for:
Large plants in heavy pots (e.g. palms, big Monsteras)
Delicate root systems (e.g. ferns, Calatheas, mature Anthuriums)
Plants that aren’t visibly struggling but need a nutrient and structure boost
Steps:
Gently loosen top 3–5 cm of soil.
Scoop it out without disturbing roots.
Add fresh, airy mix appropriate to the plant.
Water to settle—no need to tamp down heavily.
ℹ️ Soil Structure & Degradation: What Happens Over Time
Even high-quality substrates break down over 6–18 months:
Organic materials like coco coir, bark, or compost compact over time.
Aeration particles (pumice, perlite) sink and lose effectiveness.
Fungal and microbial life changes, especially if overwatered or underfed.
The result? Less oxygen, uneven moisture, and stalled roots. That’s why refreshing substrate is often more important than upgrading pots.
Root Health Checks During Spring
If you're unsure whether to repot, gently unpot and inspect the root ball.
✔ Healthy roots are:
Firm and white or beige
Scentless (or mildly earthy)
Evenly distributed throughout substrate
❌ Unhealthy signs:
Black, mushy, or slimy roots = rot
Dry, brittle roots = dehydration or old damage
Foul smell = anaerobic conditions
Dense tangles with no soil visible = rootbound
Tip: You can trim small amounts of rot and replant in fresh mix, but let the cuts dry first. For heavy rot, refer to your plant hospital protocols.
➜ Plant Types & Repotting Sensitivity
Plant | Notes |
Aroids (Monstera, Philodendron) | Tolerant of repotting if needed; enjoy airy mixes with bark + perlite. |
Hoyas | Prefer tight pots. Only repot when completely rootbound. Use fast-draining mix. |
Calatheas/Goeppertias | Sensitive roots. Avoid full repots unless root issues. Substrate refresh is safer. |
Ferns | Root ball often fragile. Stick to top-ups unless extremely potbound. |
Cacti & Succulents | Repot only into dry mix. Never repot when wet. Great time to check for root mealybugs. |
Palms | Hate root disturbance. Only upsize if visibly suffering. Refresh top layer instead. |
Spring Pest Check & Prevention: Because They’re Waking Up Too
As your plants begin to wake up in spring, so do their most unwelcome companions. Rising temperatures and longer daylight hours signal pest populations to rebound—especially in homes that stayed warm and dry over winter.
Whether it’s spider mites thriving on dry Calathea leaves or fungus gnats laying low in overly wet soil, spring is prime time for subtle infestations to explode. The good news? If you catch issues early, most are manageable without chemical overkill.
ℹ️ Why Pest Pressure Ramps Up in Spring
Higher temperatures accelerate insect life cycles — from eggs to active pests in days, not weeks.
Dormant infestations become mobile again: many pests slow in winter but never fully disappear.
Spring watering increases moisture in pots, making perfect breeding grounds for soil pests.
New growth is tender—and pests love soft, nutrient-rich tissue.
➜ What to Check, and Where
Checkpoint | What to Look For |
|---|---|
Leaf undersides | Tiny dots, webbing (spider mites), moving specs (thrips, aphids) |
Growth points & new leaves | Deformed leaves or sticky residue (aphids, mealybugs) |
Soil surface | Flying gnats, fuzzy mold, mealybugs |
Stem joints and crevices | Cottony masses (mealybugs), scale insects |
Backs of hanging leaves (e.g. Hoyas, Rhipsalis) | Mites and scale often hide here |
Pro tip: Use a magnifying glass or your phone’s zoom feature—most pests are almost invisible to the naked eye.
➜ Spring = Time for Reset & Prevention
Even if you don’t see active pests, this is the perfect time to reset your prevention strategy. Here's your step-by-step:
1. Clean Plants During Spring Reset
Dusting leaves doesn’t just help light absorption—it also removes eggs and larvae.
Clean leaf undersides too.
2. Treat High-Risk Plants Proactively
Some plants are pest magnets. These include:
Calatheas (spider mites)
Hoyas (mealybugs, scale)
Ferns (fungus gnats, aphids)
Jungle cacti (mealybugs)
Alocasias (spider mites, thrips)
If you’ve had previous pest issues, consider a preventive neem oil spray or insecticidal soap rinse every 10–14 days during spring transition.
3. Control Soil Conditions
Let the top 2–3 cm of substrate dry out between waterings to deter gnats.
Add a layer of coarse sand or gravel on top of soil if you’ve had gnat problems.
Consider beneficial nematodes or sticky traps as part of your toolkit.
4. Isolate New or Recently Repotted Plants
Repotting can stress plants, making them more susceptible to pest outbreaks.
Isolate new arrivals or freshly disturbed plants for 1–2 weeks if possible.
➜ Pest Prevention by Plant Type
Plant Group | Strategy |
|---|---|
Aroids | Wipe down stems and petioles regularly; they often hide scale. |
Hoyas | Inspect peduncles and stem nodes often. Rinse backs of leaves monthly. |
Calatheas | Keep humidity above 50%, wipe undersides of leaves to deter mites. |
Succulents & Cacti | Use dry substrate, avoid leaf contact with moist surfaces. Great hiding spot for mealybugs. |
Ferns & Palms | Prone to fungal gnats if soil stays soggy—monitor drainage carefully. |
💡 Pro Tip: Not All Spots Are Pests
Don’t panic every time you see something odd. Here’s what’s not a pest:
Guttation drops (clear, sticky sap on leaf edges)
Hard water residue
Extrafloral nectaries on some Aroids or Passiflora
Natural freckles or spots on some Calatheas or Begonias
If unsure, isolate the plant and observe before reaching for pesticides.
Humidity & Microclimate Transitions: Keep the Balance, Lose the Stress
As winter fades, it’s tempting to ditch humidifiers, move plants around freely, and assume spring solves every environmental problem. But spring can actually bring unpredictable indoor humidity—especially in climates where heating stays on well into April or May.
For sensitive plants, this period of transition can be even more stressful than winter itself. Getting your microclimate right is key to preventing curled leaves, fungal spots, or pest outbreaks.
ℹ️ What Happens to Indoor Humidity in Spring?
Radiators may still be on, drying the air even if the sun is out.
Outdoor humidity rises—but indoor levels may lag behind, especially in modern airtight homes.
Temperature fluctuations (sunny days, cold nights) confuse your plants’ transpiration cycles.
Plants that struggled in dry winter air won’t instantly recover unless humidity also improves. Conversely, over-humid environments can start to encourage fungal issues or fungus gnats if not balanced.
➜ Signs Humidity Is Still Too Low
Symptom | Common Causes |
|---|---|
Leaf edges turning brown (especially on Calatheas, ferns, palms) | RH under 40% for extended time |
Rolled or curling leaves | Transpiration stress from dry air |
Spider mite outbreaks | Thrive in dry conditions, especially with warm air |
Weak new growth | Cells can’t expand properly without water pressure |
💡How to Adjust Without Overcorrecting
Don’t just unplug the humidifier on the first warm day. Transition your microclimate gradually and observe how your plants respond.
1. Monitor, Don’t Guess
Use a digital hygrometer to track RH (relative humidity). Target:
50–60% for most tropicals
60–70% for Calatheas, ferns, and thin-leaved species
30–40% max for desert succulents and cacti
Track RH throughout the day—especially morning and late evening.
2. Keep Humidifiers Nearby—but Use Strategically
Move them to corners of plant shelves, not right next to walls.
Run them on timers to avoid saturation.
Clean them weekly—spring = mold season.
3. Natural Boosts for Microclimates
Group plants into humidity clusters: they transpire together.
Use trays with leca or gravel under pots (with water below pot base).
Place sensitive plants in naturally humid rooms—like bathrooms with windows.
4. Improve Airflow Without Drying the Air
Still using humidifiers? Pair with a gentle fan (oscillating or clip-on) to:
Reduce fungal risk
Prevent stagnant air pockets
Strengthen plant structure via movement
➜ Don’t Over-Humidify Arid Plants
Remember: not all plants love humidity.
Group | Target RH | Notes |
Jungle tropicals (Monstera, Anthurium, Hoya) | 50–60% | Consistent humidity = stronger, lusher leaves |
Humidity-sensitive (Calathea, ferns, palms) | 60–70% | Crisping starts under 45% |
Desert succulents (Crassula, Avonia, Haworthia) | 30–40% | Too much RH can cause rot or mealybug outbreaks |
Jungle cacti (Rhipsalis, Lepismium) | 40–60% | Prefer moderate humidity, but tolerate more than desert types |
➜ When to Stop Using Humidity Domes & Props
If you used prop boxes, humidity domes, or enclosed setups to help plants through winter:
Start airing them out daily to avoid mold and stagnant air.
Remove covers gradually over 5–7 days.
Don’t transition during heat spikes or light stress days.
Plants need time to re-adapt—especially those with thin leaves or underdeveloped root systems.
7. Spring Mistakes to Avoid: When Good Intentions Go Wrong
Spring gets everyone excited. And that excitement often leads to overdoing it—more water, more food, more pruning, more repotting. But more isn’t always better.
This part of your spring reset is about balance: understanding what your plants are really asking for—and not pushing them faster than they’re ready to grow.
❌ Mistake #1: Overwatering Just Because “It’s Spring”
Your plant might be waking up, but its roots don’t switch on overnight. If the plant’s foliage is still static and your space is cool or shady, overwatering can cause rot fast.
➜ Avoid it by:
Only increasing watering once light and warmth improve consistently.
Watching the plant, not the calendar: new growth = more water; still static = wait.
Using your finger or a moisture meter before watering, especially for succulents and Hoyas.
❌ Mistake #2: Overfeeding or Feeding Too Early
It’s tempting to start dumping fertilizer into everything now that it’s “growing season.” But pushing nutrients into a system not actively growing can backfire—leading to salt buildup or leaf burn.
➜ Do this instead:
Wait until new growth is clearly visible (new leaves, roots, or active tips).
Use diluted fertilizer (¼ to ½ strength) to start, especially after winter.
For slow-growers (e.g. Hoyas, Sansevieria), wait even longer before resuming feed.
❌ Mistake #3: Repotting Every Plant
We’ve covered this in-depth already, but it bears repeating: don’t repot just because it’s spring. If the plant is thriving and not rootbound, repotting can delay growth or shock the system.
➜ Focus on:
Plants showing clear signs of being rootbound, unstable, or stuck in poor soil.
Substrate refresh as a safer option when in doubt.
❌ Mistake #4: Moving Plants into Full Sun Without Acclimation
Spring sun is strong—and it’s different than winter sun. Moving a plant from a shady corner straight to a west-facing window can scorch leaves in a day.
➜ Smart transitions:
Gradually increase light exposure over 1–2 weeks.
Use sheer curtains to buffer harsh direct sun.
Rotate plants every few days to prevent uneven adaptation.
❌ Mistake #5: Misreading Growth Signals
Not all changes = growth. Yellowing, curling, or even fast elongation can be stress—not improvement.
Watch for:
Leggy growth = still not enough light
Pale new leaves = possible nutrient deficiency or root issue
Sudden droop after a move = transplant or location stress, not thirst
Stay observant—growth is a conversation between your care and the plant’s response.
💡 Final Reminder: Let Spring Be a Slow Shift, Not a Sprint
The most successful plant resets happen when you move in sync with your plants’ pace, not in front of it. Don’t feel pressured to tick every box in one weekend. Spread your spring reset over 3–6 weeks and observe along the way.
Additional Notes: Support, Timing & Your Role as an Indoor Climate Manager
Spring isn’t about hitting reset on a schedule—it’s about responding to what your plants have gone through over winter and what they need now.
Here are a few extra things to keep in mind:
💡 Structural Support Matters More Now
Use this time to install or adjust moss poles, bamboo stakes, trellises, or support clips.
Climbing plants (Monstera, Scindapsus, Philodendron) often need new anchors after their winter stretch.
Don’t wait for flopping—give them a frame to grow into now.
💡 Space Out Your Resets
Don’t repot, prune, and move the plant on the same day. Spread changes over 7–10 days so plants can adapt gradually.
If you made a big move (e.g. from winter tent to windowsill), wait to fertilize or prune.
💡 Be Your Plant’s Climate—Not Its Clock
Indoor plants don’t follow seasons. They follow cues: light, temperature, nutrients, and air movement.
Your job is to shift those cues intelligently, based on the plant’s feedback—not assumptions about springtime.
FAQs About Spring Reset
Q1: My Hoya hasn’t grown in months. Should I repot or fertilize?
Q2: I see sticky drops on my plant’s leaves—are those pests?
Q3: Can I restart a plant that looks completely dead from winter?
Q4: My Calathea’s leaves are crispy at the edges—do I need to prune or repot it?
Q5: Should I start fertilizing succulents now that it's spring?
Q6: My fern looks limp and faded—what can I do to revive it this spring?
Q7: I just bought a new plant—should I repot it right away?
Q8: My cactus shriveled over winter—should I water more now?
Q9: Can I move my plants outside now that it’s warm during the day?
Q10: Should I rotate my plants more often in spring?
Spring Reset Checklist (Quick Reference)
Use this as a rapid guide for action:
✔ Check each plant’s light placement & adjust based on sun angle
✔ Clean leaves to remove dust and residue
✔ Prune leggy or damaged growth (based on species)
✔ Inspect soil: refresh top layer or repot if compacted/rootbound
✔ Begin light fertilization (only if growth is visible)
✔ Examine for pests: leaf undersides, crevices, soil
✔ Maintain humidity levels for sensitive plants
✔ Adjust support systems (poles, stakes, trellises)
✔ Track RH and temperature if possible
✔ Space out interventions to avoid plant stress
Time to Get Hands-On
Ready to reboot your indoor jungle? Whether you're pruning back that scraggly Monstera, refreshing the soil for your sleepy Hoya, or checking in on your Calathea’s humidity needs—this is the moment.
➜ Stock up on well-aerated substrates, natural pest treatments, and tools from our shop.
➜ Or shop our curated collection of plants that bounce back beautifully in spring.
Your houseplants aren’t asking for perfection—just a little help adjusting to the light.
Sources and Further Reading
Mauseth, J. D. (2017). Botany: An Introduction to Plant Biology. Jones & Bartlett Learning.
Fitter, A., & Hay, R. (2002). Environmental Physiology of Plants (3rd ed.). Academic Press.
Taiz, L., Zeiger, E., Møller, I. M., & Murphy, A. (2015). Plant Physiology and Development. Sinauer Associates.
Demmig-Adams, B., & Adams, W. W. (1992). Photoprotection and Other Responses of Plants to High Light Stress. Annual Review of Plant Biology, 43, 599–626.
Burnett, S. E., Mattson, N. S., & Williams, K. A. (2016). Substrates and fertilizers for organic container production of herbs, vegetables, and herbaceous ornamentals in U.S. greenhouses. Scientia Horticulturae, 202, 74–83.
Hahn, J., & Weisenhorn, J. Managing Insects on Indoor Plants. University of Minnesota Extension.
Corlett, R. T. (2016). Plant Diversity in a Changing World: Status, Trends, and Conservation Needs. Plant Diversity, 38(1), 10–16.
Comments