Caladiums (Caladium species, primarily Caladium bicolor hybrids) are tropical perennials prized for their bold, heart-shaped leaves in a stunning array of colors—from speckled pinks and reds to crisp white-and-green patterns. Native to the warm, humid forests of South and Central America, these plants thrive in heat but need protection in cooler climates. With thousands of cultivars available, Caladiums are perfect for making a statement both indoors and outdoors.
These plants grow from underground tubers—often referred to as "bulbs"—without any above-ground stems. Instead, their colorful leaves emerge directly from the tuber on long petioles, creating a lush, bushy appearance that stands out in any setting.
Whether you're growing them as summer ornamentals outside or as houseplants in temperate regions, proper care is essential for maintaining their vibrant foliage. In this guide, you'll find everything you need to know about Caladium care—from light, water, and soil requirements to tips for growing them indoors. Plus, you'll get a step-by-step guide on storing Caladium tubers during dormancy to ensure these stunning plants brighten your space year after year.
Table of Contents
Caladium – A Journey Through History and Beauty
Caladium brings a touch of the tropics with its vibrant, heart-shaped leaves and a history rooted in the rainforests of South America. Known for their striking patterns and bold colors, these tropical perennials have fascinated both gardeners and botanists for centuries. The story of Caladium is one of discovery, admiration, and a timeless appreciation for nature's artistry.
ℹ️ The Origins of Caladium
The name Caladium originates from the Malayan word keladi, referring to plants with edible corms or tubers in the Araceae family. It was the French botanist Étienne Pierre Ventenat who first described the genus in 1800, captivated by its exotic foliage. Sharing its lineage with popular houseplants like Philodendron, Monstera, and Anthurium, Caladium quickly gained popularity across European conservatories for its vibrant appeal.
ℹ️ The Meaning Behind “Bicolor”
The species name “bicolor” highlights the stunning two-toned leaves that make Caladium bicolor hybrids so desirable. From rich reds and pinks to bright whites and greens, these dazzling combinations not only attract pollinators but also help deter herbivores in their natural habitat. The vivid patterns are a testament to the plant's adaptability and survival strategies.
ℹ️ Common Names and Their Significance
Caladiums are known by various nicknames, each capturing a different aspect of their charm:
“Angel Wings” for their delicate, ethereal leaves.
“Elephant Ears” for the broad, soft leaves that sway gracefully.
Despite sharing a name with Alocasia and Colocasia, Caladiums are distinct in their translucent, motion-filled foliage, bringing life to shaded corners of gardens and patios.
ℹ️ Cultural Significance of Caladium
In tropical cultures, Caladiums symbolize prosperity and joy. Their bright leaves are used to adorn public spaces and homes during festivals, reflecting abundance and celebration. In South America, these plants hold a special place in local traditions, admired for both their beauty and resilience.
ℹ️ The European Fascination with Caladium
The journey of Caladiums to Europe began in the 18th and 19th centuries, when explorers brought back these exotic plants. The vivid hues and unique patterns of the leaves made them a centerpiece in Victorian conservatories, symbolizing wealth and sophistication. This fascination led to extensive hybridization, resulting in the vast array of Caladium cultivars available today.
ℹ️ A Part of the Araceae Family
Caladium belongs to the diverse Araceae family, alongside favorites like Philodendron, Monstera, and Anthurium. Known for their dramatic foliage and adaptability, these plants thrive in warm, humid conditions with indirect light—traits shared by Caladiums.
ℹ️ Practical Uses Beyond Beauty
In parts of South America, Caladium tubers are used in traditional medicine, and their ability to flourish in shaded, humid environments makes them invaluable in landscaping. This balance of form and function is a key reason why Caladiums remain popular among both gardeners and botanists.
ℹ️ A Legacy of Timeless Appeal
Growing Caladiums is about more than just displaying their beauty—it's about continuing a legacy that stretches back centuries. From the rainforests of South America to the glasshouses of Victorian England, the story of Caladium is a reminder of the enduring allure of tropical plants.
Caladium Basics & Varieties
Caladiums belong to the arum family (Araceae) and are often called “Angel Wings” or “Elephant Ears” (though they should not be confused with other plants known as elephant ears). With an impressive variety of cultivars, Caladiums offer foliage in stunning patterns—from bright white with green veins to deep red with pink spots.
Key Varieties of Caladium:
➜ Fancy-Leaf Caladiums
Characterized by large, heart-shaped leaves that can grow 30 cm to 75 cm tall on long petioles. These varieties generally prefer more shade and can be sensitive to cold.
➜ Strap-Leaf Caladiums (Lance-Leaf)
Known for their narrower, elongated leaves with ruffled edges on shorter petioles, typically under 30 cm tall. Strap-leaf Caladiums usually produce more but smaller leaves per tuber and are often more tolerant of sun and slightly cooler conditions.
Popular Caladium Cultivars
Caladium bicolor 'Candidum' – Crisp White Leaves with Green Veins
Caladium bicolor 'Candidum' stands out with its elegant white leaves accented by bold green veins, creating a fresh and sophisticated look. This cultivar thrives in shaded areas, bringing brightness to dark corners, and effortlessly enhances any indoor space with its clean, refined appearance. Perfect for adding contrast and a touch of elegance, 'Candidum' is a must-have for those who appreciate striking foliage.
Caladium bicolor 'Carolyn Whorton' – Vibrant Pink Leaves with Bold Red Veins
Caladium bicolor 'Carolyn Whorton' captivates with its large, vibrant pink leaves adorned with bold red veins and contrasting green edges. This striking combination creates a lively and eye-catching display, perfect for brightening shaded areas or adding a pop of color to indoor spaces. With its dynamic foliage, 'Carolyn Whorton' effortlessly transforms any setting into a tropical retreat.
Caladium bicolor 'Frog in a Blender' – Playful Green Leaves with Dark Red and Light Green Spots
Caladium bicolor 'Frog in a Blender' stands out with its uniquely patterned green leaves, splashed with dark red and lighter green spots. This vibrant mix of colors creates a playful and exotic vibe, making it a captivating choice for shaded areas and indoor displays. With its lively and unconventional foliage, 'Frog in a Blender' is perfect for those looking to add a touch of whimsy and boldness to their plant collection.
Caladium bicolor 'Red Flash' – Bold Dark Green Leaves with Bright Red Veins
Caladium bicolor 'Red Flash' captivates with its dramatic dark green leaves highlighted by vivid red veins and a speckled pattern. This striking contrast creates a bold and eye-catching display, perfect for adding depth and vibrancy to shaded areas or indoor spaces. With its powerful foliage and unique coloration, 'Red Flash' makes an impressive statement in any plant collection.
Caladium bicolor 'White Queen' – Refined White Leaves with Striking Red Veins
Caladium bicolor 'White Queen' captivates with its elegant white leaves accented by bold red veins, creating a refined and sophisticated appearance. This striking contrast makes 'White Queen' an excellent choice for adding brightness and elegance to both containers and shaded garden beds. With its graceful foliage and timeless appeal, this cultivar effortlessly elevates any space.
Caladium Care at a Glance
If you're short on time but want to keep your Caladiums thriving, this quick reference guide covers the essentials—from light and water needs to fertilizing and storage. Here’s what you need to know for vibrant, healthy foliage:
Aspect | Details | Pro Tips |
|---|---|---|
🌞 Light Requirements | Bright, indirect light indoors. Partial shade outdoors. | Rotate the plant occasionally for even growth. |
💧 Watering | Consistently moist, not soggy. Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry. | Water in the morning to minimize fungal risks. |
🌫️ Humidity | High (50–70%). Use humidifiers, pebble trays, or group plants. | Avoid misting to prevent fungal diseases. |
🌡️ Temperature | Warm (21–29°C) during growth. Keep above 10°C during dormancy. | Move indoors before temperatures drop below 16°C. |
🌱 Soil | Rich, well-draining with organic matter. Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5.5–7). | Avoid heavy, clay-rich soils to prevent tuber rot. |
🧪 Fertilizing | Balanced, slow-release fertilizer every 4–6 weeks in spring and summer. | Water first, then fertilize to prevent root burn. |
💤 Dormancy | Triggered by cooler temperatures and shorter days. Store tubers at 10–16°C. | Dig up tubers before frost and store them in dry peat moss. |
⚠️ Common Issues | Leaf burn (move to shade), yellowing leaves (adjust water/light), pests (mealybugs, spider mites). | Ensure proper drainage to prevent tuber rot. |
Light Requirements for Caladiums
Caladiums thrive with bright, indirect light and partial shade. In their native tropical habitat, they grow beneath tree canopies, preferring filtered sunlight. Ensuring the right amount of light helps maintain their vibrant leaf colors and prevents issues like scorching or fading.
Ideal Lighting Conditions:
🏠 Indoors:
Place Caladiums in bright, indirect light near an east-facing window or a north-facing window with filtered light. To promote even growth, rotate the plant regularly. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves and cause brown patches. If natural light is limited, consider using a fluorescent or LED grow light positioned about 30–45 cm above the plant for 12–14 hours daily.
🌳 Outdoors:
Caladiums do best in partial shade with morning sun and afternoon shade. Strap-leaf varieties can tolerate a bit more direct sun, but even these should be shielded during the hottest part of the day to prevent leaf scorch. Planting them under taller plants can help filter sunlight naturally.
💡Artificial Lighting:
If natural light isn’t sufficient, using fluorescent or LED grow lights is a practical alternative. Position the lights 30–45 cm above the plant and keep them on for 12–14 hours daily. A timer can help maintain consistent lighting, ensuring that your Caladium receives adequate light for vibrant growth.
Common Light-Related Issues and Solutions
😒 Issue | 🔍 Cause | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Scorched Leaves (Brown Patches) | Exposure to direct sun, especially around midday. | Move to a shadier spot or use sheer curtains indoors to diffuse sunlight. |
Fading or Pale Leaves | Insufficient light causing colors to fade or appear washed out. | Relocate to a brighter spot with indirect light to restore vibrant hues. |
Leggy Growth (Long Stems, Sparse Leaves) | Lack of adequate light leading to stretched growth. | Gradually increase light exposure but avoid direct sunlight to prevent scorching. |
📌 Pro Tips for Optimizing Light:
Rotate potted Caladiums every few weeks to ensure even light exposure and prevent leaning.
Use sheer curtains for indoor Caladiums to diffuse direct sunlight without blocking it entirely.
In darker rooms, consider using a grow light to supplement natural light, especially during winter months.
Providing the right lighting conditions will help your Caladiums maintain their vibrant colors and healthy growth year-round.
Soil and Planting for Caladiums
ℹ️ Ideal Soil Type:
Use a rich, well-draining potting mix containing organic matter like compost or fine bark.
Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH (5.5–7) for optimal nutrient uptake.
Avoid heavy clay soils that retain too much moisture, leading to tuber rot.
ℹ️ Soil Amendments for Optimal Growth:
Compost: Enhances nutrients and improves soil texture. Mix 20–30% compost into the soil.
Perlite or Vermiculite: Boosts aeration and drainage, preventing waterlogging. Blend 10–20% perlite into the mix for containers.
Coconut Coir:Lowers soil pH slightly and retains moisture without causing waterlogging. Mix with perlite for a balanced soil blend.
Horticultural Sand: Useful for garden beds with heavy soil. Mix in to improve drainage.
ℹ️ Planting Caladium Tubers:
Timing:
Plant outdoors in late spring or early summer when soil reaches 18–21°C.
Indoors, start tubers 4–6 weeks before the last frost date for a head start.
Planting Depth:
Plant tubers 4–5 cm deep with the “eye” (knobby side) facing up.
If the "eye" is not visible, plant the tuber sideways—Caladiums will adjust naturally.
Spacing:
Space tubers 20–30 cm apart in garden beds for a full look.
Closer spacing creates a denser display but may lead to smaller leaves due to competition.
Watering After Planting:
Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the tubers without causing waterlogging.
Ensure the soil remains moist but not soggy to prevent tuber rot.
ℹ️ Choosing the Right Tubers:
Size Matters: Tubers range from No. 2 to Jumbo/Mammoth. Larger tubers have more “eyes” (growth buds) for fuller foliage.
Condition: Choose firm, healthy tubers without soft spots or signs of rot.
Tip: For a lusher display, opt for larger tubers with multiple eyes.
Common Planting MISTAKES and Solutions
😒 Issue | 🔍 Cause | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Tuber Rot | Planting in waterlogged soil or too deep. | Use well-draining soil and plant at the recommended depth (4–5 cm). |
Slow Sprouting | Planting in cool soil or upside down. | Wait until soil is 18–21°C and plant with eyes facing up. |
Yellowing Leaves Shortly After Planting | Overwatering or poor drainage. | Reduce watering and add perlite to the soil mix for better aeration. |
📌Pre-Sprouting Tips:
How to Pre-Sprout: Start tubers indoors 4–6 weeks before planting outside.
Place them in shallow pots or trays with moist potting mix in a warm, bright spot (21°C+).
Transplant outdoors once shoots appear and the soil has warmed.
Benefits: Accelerates growth and ensures earlier foliage display.
✔ Mulching for Moisture Retention:
Apply a 2–3 cm layer of mulch around outdoor Caladiums.
Helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and stabilize soil temperature.
❌ Fertilizing at Planting:
Avoid: Fertilizing immediately after planting to prevent root burn.
When to Start: Begin feeding with a balanced fertilizer 4–6 weeks after sprouting.
📌 Pro Tips for Soil and Planting:
Use Pots with Drainage: For potted Caladiums, ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
Amend Heavy Garden Soil: For clay-rich beds, mix in organic matter and builder’s sand to improve drainage.
Plant Tubers Upright: If unsure about the orientation, plant sideways. Tubers naturally adjust.
Watering and Humidity for Caladiums
Proper watering and humidity are crucial for keeping Caladiums healthy and vibrant. These tropical plants thrive in moist, humid environments but can suffer from rot if overwatered. Understanding the balance between moisture and drainage is key to preventing common issues like tuber rot and yellowing leaves.
📌 Watering Caladiums: Best Practices
✔ Consistently Moist Soil:
Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged.
Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil feels dry.
✔ Watering Frequency:
For outdoor Caladiums, water once or twice a week in warm weather.
For potted Caladiums, check soil moisture every 3–5 days.
Increase watering frequency during hot spells; reduce in cooler, shaded spots.
✔ Water Thoroughly:
When watering, soak the soil until excess water drains out of the bottom.
Ensure pots have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
✔ Morning Watering:
Water in the morning to allow foliage to dry off during the day, reducing fungal risks.
✔ Avoid Overwatering:
Do not let Caladiums sit in standing water or completely dry out for long periods.
Overwatering can cause tuber rot and attract pests like fungus gnats.
📌 Water Quality Tips:
Room-Temperature Water:
Use water at room temperature to avoid shocking the roots.
Dechlorinated Water:
If possible, let tap water sit for 24 hours to dissipate chlorine, which can harm Caladiums.
Alternatively, use rainwater or filtered water for sensitive plants.
ℹ️ Signs of Improper Watering:
Overwatering:
Symptoms include yellowing leaves, tuber rot, and mushy stems.
Solution: Reduce watering, improve drainage, and let the soil dry out slightly.
Underwatering:
Symptoms include wilting leaves, crispy edges, and slow growth.
Solution: Increase watering frequency, especially in hot weather.
ℹ️ Humidity Requirements for Caladiums:
Ideal Humidity Level:
Maintain 50–70% humidity for optimal growth.
Low humidity can cause browning tips and crispy edges on leaves.
Boosting Indoor Humidity:
Humidifier: Run a small humidifier nearby for consistent moisture.
Pebble Tray: Place pots on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase local humidity.
Plant Grouping: Arrange Caladiums with other houseplants to create a humid microclimate.
Avoid Misting:
Misting provides only a temporary boost and can promote fungal diseases.
Focus on more reliable methods like humidifiers or pebble trays.
Common Watering and Humidity Mistakes
⚠️ Mistake | 🚫 What to Avoid | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Standing Water | Letting pots sit in saucers full of water. | Empty saucers promptly after watering to prevent root rot. |
Cold Water Shock | Watering with cold water can shock roots, causing leaf drop and stress. | Use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the roots. |
Inconsistent Watering | Irregular schedules lead to leaf curling and growth issues. | Maintain a consistent routine to keep soil evenly moist. |
📌 Pro Tips for Watering and Humidity:
✔ Check Soil Moisture:
Stick your finger about 2–3 cm into the soil to check for moisture before watering.
✔ Use Self-Watering Pots:
Consider self-watering containers for consistent moisture and to reduce the risk of overwatering.
✔ Monitor Indoor Humidity:
Use a hygrometer to track humidity levels and adjust with humidifiers if needed.
Temperature and Climate for Caladiums
Caladiums are tropical perennials that thrive in warm and humid environments. Maintaining the right temperature range is essential for their growth and preventing dormancy. Exposure to cold or sudden temperature drops can cause leaves to yellow and tubers to rot.
´ℹ️ Optimal Temperature Range:
Growing Season:
Maintain temperatures between 21–29°C for optimal growth and vibrant foliage.
Caladiums grow faster and produce larger leaves in warm conditions.
Dormancy Threshold:
Temperatures below 16°C can trigger dormancy, causing leaves to yellow and die back.
Tubers must be kept above 10°C even during dormancy to prevent rotting.
Cold Sensitivity:
Exposure to temperatures below 10°C can cause tuber rot and kill the plant.
Frost Protection:
Caladiums are not frost-tolerant. A light frost can kill the foliage and damage tubers irreparably.
Managing Indoor Temperatures:
Ideal Range Indoors:
✔ Keep indoor temperatures between 18–27°C.
❌ Avoid placing Caladiums near drafty windows or frequently opened doors in winter.
Avoid Cold Drafts:
❌ Air conditioning and open windows can cause sudden temperature drops, leading to leaf curling and stress.
✔ Use draft stoppers or move plants away from cold airflow.
Consistent Warmth:
✔ Maintain a stable temperature to prevent leaf drop and dormancy.
❌ Sudden shifts between warm and cold can shock Caladiums, causing slow growth and yellowing.
ℹ️ Outdoor Climate Considerations:
Hardiness Zones:
Caladiums are hardy in USDA Zones 9–11, where the ground does not freeze.
In these zones, tubers can be left in the ground year-round with mulch for insulation.
Cooler Climates (Zones 8 and Below):
Lift and store tubers before the first frost.
Consider growing in containers to move them indoors during cold snaps.
Hot Weather Tips:
Caladiums tolerate heat well if kept moist and shaded.
In temperatures above 35°C, water more frequently and provide additional shade to prevent stress.
ℹ️ Seasonal Temperature Management:
Spring and Summer:
Move potted Caladiums outdoors once night temperatures remain above 16°C.
Ensure adequate humidity and watering during hot spells.
Autumn:
Bring potted Caladiums indoors before night temperatures drop below 16°C.
Reduce watering gradually as plants prepare for dormancy.
Winter (Dormancy):
Keep tubers in a cool, dry place at 10–16°C.
Avoid watering stored tubers to prevent rot.
Common Temperature-Related Issues and Solutions
😒 Issue | 🔍 Cause | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Yellowing Leaves | Exposure to cool temperatures or sudden drops below 16°C. | Move to a warmer spot and ensure stable temperatures. |
Wilting or Drooping | Cold drafts or air conditioning. | Relocate away from vents and drafts. |
Stunted Growth | Temperatures below 21°C during the growing season. | Increase warmth and ensure bright, indirect light. |
📌 Pro Tips for Temperature Management:
Use a Thermometer:
Place a digital thermometer near plants to monitor temperature fluctuations.
Insulate Pots:
Wrap outdoor pots in burlap or place on foam pads to protect roots from cold.
Gradual Acclimation:
When moving Caladiums outdoors, gradually increase light and temperature exposure to prevent shock.
Fertilizing Caladiums
Caladiums thrive with regular feeding during their active growing season. Proper fertilization ensures vibrant foliage, larger leaves, and healthy tubers. Choosing the right type of fertilizer and applying it correctly prevents common issues like dull leaf color, root burn, and nutrient deficiencies.
ℹ️ Choosing the Right Fertilizer:
Balanced Fertilizer:
Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 for steady growth.
For enhanced leaf color, opt for a fertilizer with slightly lower nitrogen (such as 5-10-10). High nitrogen can result in greener but less colorful leaves.
Slow-Release vs. Liquid:
Slow-Release: Mix slow-release granules into the soil at planting for continuous feeding over 2–3 months.
Liquid Fertilizer: Apply a diluted liquid fertilizer at half strength every 4–6 weeks during spring and summer.
❗Avoid High-Nitrogen Fertilizers:
High nitrogen levels can cause excess green growth at the expense of vibrant leaf colors.
Choose a balanced or slightly phosphorus-rich fertilizer for best results.
ℹ️ When and How to Fertilize:
Active Growing Season:
Start feeding 4–6 weeks after planting once shoots appear.
Continue fertilizing through spring and summer until late summer.
Application Frequency:
Use liquid fertilizer every 4–6 weeks or as directed if using slow-release granules.
❗ Water First, Then Fertilize:
Always water the soil before applying fertilizer to prevent root burn.
❗ Avoid Leaf Contact:
Prevent fertilizer from touching the leaves as it can cause burn spots.
If contact occurs, rinse leaves with clean water promptly.
ℹ️ Signs of Nutrient Deficiency
😒 Issue | 🔍 Cause | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Pale or Faded Leaves | Lack of phosphorus or potassium. | Apply a balanced or phosphorus-rich fertilizer to restore color. |
Small Leaves and Slow Growth | Insufficient nitrogen or overall nutrient depletion. | Increase feeding frequency with a balanced fertilizer at half strength. |
Yellowing Leaves | Nutrient imbalance or overwatering causing leaching of nutrients. | Adjust watering practices and fertilize with a balanced formula. |
Fertilizer Placement Tips:
For Liquid Fertilizer:
Apply directly to moist soil, avoiding contact with foliage.
For Granular Fertilizer:
In Pots: Gently scratch it into the soil surface and water thoroughly.
In Garden Beds: Sprinkle around the root zone but not directly on the crown.
Avoid Fertilizer Burn:
Excess fertilizer can cause salt buildup in the soil, leading to root damage.
Flush soil occasionally by watering deeply to leach out excess salts.
When to Stop Fertilizing Caladium:
Late Summer to Early Autumn:
Cease fertilization as days shorten and temperatures cool to allow Caladiums to prepare for dormancy.
Feeding too late can lead to rot or cause nutrients to leach away unused.
Dormancy Period:
❗ Do not fertilize dormant tubers stored for winter. Resume feeding in spring when new growth appears.
Common Fertilization Mistakes and Solutions
⚠️ Mistake | 🔍 Symptoms / Effect | 🛠️ Solution |
|---|---|---|
Over-Fertilizing | Brown leaf tips, salt crust on soil, and root damage. | Flush the soil with water and reduce feeding frequency. |
Under-Fertilizing | Pale, small leaves and stunted growth. | Increase feeding frequency with a balanced fertilizer. |
Using High-Nitrogen Fertilizers | Excessive green growth with less vibrant color. | Switch to a balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer (like 5-10-10). |
📌 Pro Tips for Fertilizing Caladiums:
Test Soil pH:
Optimal pH is 5.5–7 for nutrient uptake. Adjust with lime (to raise) or sulfur (to lower) if needed.
Monitor Leaf Color:
Bright, vibrant leaves indicate proper feeding; pale or dull leaves suggest a need for phosphorus or potassium.
Reduce Feeding Gradually:
In late summer, gradually reduce feeding to help Caladiums transition into dormancy smoothly.
Dormancy & Tuber Storage for Caladiums
Caladiums naturally go dormant when temperatures drop or daylight hours shorten. Proper handling during dormancy is essential to ensure tubers survive winter and regrow vigorously in spring. Understanding when and how to lift, cure, and store tubers prevents rot and loss of plants.
ℹ️ Understanding Dormancy:
➜ When Dormancy Occurs:
Triggered by cooler temperatures (below 16°C) or shorter daylight hours, usually in late autumn.
Caladiums stop growing, and leaves gradually yellow and die back.
➜ Why Dormancy is Important:
Allows tubers to rest and store energy for the next growing season.
Prevents rot and disease by keeping tubers dry and cool.
➜ Signs of Dormancy:
Yellowing leaves that drop gradually.
Slower or no new growth.
Tuber feels firm and dry but shows no active shoots.
Preparing Caladiums for Dormancy:
➜ Stop Fertilizing:
Cease feeding 6–8 weeks before expected dormancy to avoid encouraging growth.
➜ Reduce Watering Gradually:
As leaves yellow, decrease watering to help the plant transition smoothly.
Allow soil to dry out almost completely once leaves die back.
➜ Wait for Leaf Dieback:
Let leaves die back naturally without cutting them off prematurely.
Leaves transfer remaining nutrients to the tuber as they wither.
Digging Up Tubers:
➜ When to Dig:
Dig up tubers before the first frost in cooler climates (Zones 8 and below).
In warmer zones (9–11), tubers can remain in the ground year-round with mulch for insulation.
➜ How to Dig Tubers:
Use a garden fork or trowel to lift tubers gently, avoiding cuts or bruises.
Insert the tool several centimeters away from the base to prevent damage.
Shake off loose soil without washing tubers—keep them dry to prevent rot.
Curing Tubers: Essential for Preventing Rot
ℹ️ Purpose of Curing:
Curing hardens the outer skin of the tuber, reducing the risk of rot during storage.
➜ How to Cure Tubers:
Lay tubers in a warm, dry area with good air circulation, away from direct sunlight.
Ideal temperature for curing is 21–27°C.
Allow tubers to cure for 7–14 days until the outer skin feels dry and firm.
➜ Handling During Curing:
Leave the foliage attached during curing; it helps draw out excess moisture.
Remove dried leaves after curing by gently pulling or using clean scissors.
Cleaning and Inspecting Tubers:
➜ Remove Soil Gently:
Brush off any remaining soil without washing. Excess moisture can cause rot.
➜ Inspect for Damage:
Check tubers for soft spots, cuts, or mold.
❗ Discard or treat damaged tubers with fungicide to prevent spreading rot.
➜ Trim Off Remaining Roots:
Use clean scissors to trim roots and any dried foliage.
❗ Do not cut into the main tuber to avoid infection entry points.
Storing Caladium Tubers:
➜ Ideal Storage Conditions:
✔ Store tubers in a cool, dry place at 10–16°C.
❗ Avoid storing in airtight containers; choose paper bags, cardboard boxes, or mesh sacks for airflow.
➜ Packing Options:
✔ Layer tubers in dry coconut fire, vermiculite, or perlite to prevent moisture buildup.
❗ Ensure tubers do not touch each other to reduce the risk of rot spreading.
➜ Humidity Control:
✔ Keep storage area dry (50% or lower humidity) to prevent fungal growth.
➜ Inspect Periodically:
✔Check tubers every 4–6 weeks for signs of softness, rot, or mold.
❗ Discard any decaying tubers to protect the rest.
💡 Alternative Storage Methods:
In-Pot Storage:
Leave tubers in their pots and store them in a cool, dark place.
Do not water until spring when new growth appears.
Paper Bag Storage:
Wrap tubers individually in newspaper and place them in a breathable paper bag.
Prevents tubers from touching and reduces the risk of rot.
Fungicide Dusting:
Optionally, dust tubers with a garden fungicide or sulfur powder before storage.
Effective in humid climates or if rot was an issue previously.
Handling Tubers After Dormancy and Replanting Tubers in Spring:
After dormancy, inspect stored tubers for signs of mold, rot, or softness before planting. Discard any tubers that appear decayed. To rehydrate, soak tubers in room-temperature water for 1–2 hours before planting, then allow them to dry completely to prevent rot.
Replanting Tubers in Spring:
➜ When to Replant:
Plant tubers once the soil temperature reaches 18–21°C in spring.
Indoors, start 4–6 weeks before the last frost date.
➜ Preparing Tubers for Planting:
Brush off packing material like peat moss or vermiculite—do not wash tubers.
Inspect tubers for signs of sprouting or soft spots; discard any that appear rotten.
➜ Rehydrating Tubers:
Soak in room-temperature water for 1–2 hours before planting to promote faster sprouting.
Ensure tubers are dry before planting to avoid rot.
Common Dormancy Mistakes and Solutions:
Mistake | What happens | Solution |
|---|---|---|
Storing Tubers Wet | Storing tubers without proper drying can cause excessive moisture retention, leading to rot and fungal infections. | After harvesting, place tubers in a well-ventilated area with low humidity for several days to ensure complete drying before packing them for storage. |
Too Warm or Cold Storage | Maintaining storage temperatures above 16°C can cause premature sprouting, depleting the tuber's energy reserves. Temperatures below 10°C can cause chilling injuries and rot. | Store tubers in a cool, dry place with a consistent temperature between 10–15°C. Use a thermometer to monitor storage conditions and avoid exposing tubers to sudden temperature fluctuations. |
Sealed Containers | Using airtight containers prevents air circulation, causing moisture buildup that leads to mold and rot. | Choose breathable storage options like mesh bags, paper sacks, or perforated cardboard boxes that allow for air circulation and prevent moisture from accumulating around the tubers. |
Incorrect Humidity Levels | Excessively high humidity during storage encourages mold growth, while extremely low humidity causes tubers to shrivel and dry out. | Maintain humidity levels between 50–60% by storing tubers in a dry, well-ventilated space and checking periodically to ensure they are neither too dry nor too moist. |
Overlapping or Crowded Storage | Storing tubers too close together can restrict airflow, increasing the risk of rot and mold spreading rapidly. | Arrange tubers in a single layer with space between each to allow proper air circulation, reducing the risk of rot and ensuring even drying. |
Not Checking Tubers Regularly | Failing to inspect stored tubers periodically can allow minor issues like mold or soft spots to spread unchecked. | Check tubers every 3–4 weeks for signs of mold, rot, or pests. Remove any affected tubers immediately to prevent problems from spreading. |
Storing Damaged Tubers | Damaged or bruised tubers are more susceptible to rot and infections during storage. | Discard any damaged tubers or treat minor cuts with a fungicide powder before drying and storing them. |
Inadequate Curing Time | Insufficient curing time before storage leaves tubers vulnerable to moisture loss and decay. | Allow tubers to cure for at least 7–10 days in a warm, dry environment to toughen their outer skin before transferring them to storage. |
Improper Cleaning Before Storage | Leaving excess soil or moisture on tubers increases the risk of bacterial or fungal infections during storage. | Gently brush off excess soil without washing the tubers, as residual moisture can promote rot. Only wash if absolutely necessary and ensure complete drying before storage. |
Direct Exposure to Light | Exposure to light during storage can trigger sprouting and cause tubers to become green and inedible. | Store tubers in a dark, cool place to prevent sprouting and maintain their viability until the next planting season. |
📌 Pro Tips for Successful Dormancy and Storage:
Label Tubers:
Use plant tags or paper labels to identify cultivars, especially if storing multiple varieties.
Avoid Basements:
Unless well-ventilated, basements can be too humid for tuber storage.
Inspect Tubers Regularly:
Check every 4–6 weeks and discard any showing signs of rot.
Common Issues & Solutions for Caladiums
Caladiums, though stunning, can face several challenges from pests to environmental stress. Understanding the common problems and their solutions ensures healthy growth and vibrant foliage.
Issue | Symptoms | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
😑 Yellowing Leaves | Leaves turn yellow, wilt, and drop. | Overwatering, poor drainage, or nutrient deficiency. | Reduce watering, improve drainage, and apply a balanced fertilizer. |
😶 Brown Leaf Edges or Tips | Dry, crispy edges or tips on leaves. | Low humidity or inconsistent watering. | Increase humidity to 50–70% using a humidifier or pebble tray. Ensure consistent watering. |
🙄 Scorched or Burned Leaves | Brown patches on leaves, especially on pink or white varieties. | Direct sunlight exposure. | Move to partial shade or use sheer curtains indoors to diffuse light. |
😒 Leggy Growth (Long Stems, Sparse Leaves) | Stems stretch with fewer leaves, appearing weak. | Insufficient light. | Relocate to a brighter spot with indirect light or use grow lights. |
🤨 Slow or No Growth | Stunted size and minimal new leaves. | Cool temperatures or lack of nutrients. | Maintain 21–29°C and apply a balanced fertilizer every 4–6 weeks. |
😬 Small Leaves with Faded Colors | New leaves are smaller and less vibrant. | Nutrient depletion or insufficient light. | Increase feeding with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer and ensure bright, indirect light. |
😕 Wilting Leaves Despite Moist Soil | Leaves droop even though soil is damp. | Root rot due to waterlogging. | Improve drainage and allow soil to dry partially before watering. |
😓 Tuber Rot | Soft, mushy tubers with a foul odor. | Overwatering or planting in heavy soil. | Use a well-draining mix and ensure proper planting depth (4–5 cm). Discard rotting tubers. |
😐 Leaf Curling | Edges of leaves curl inward. | Low humidity or temperature stress. | Increase humidity and maintain consistent temperatures above 18°C. |
😟 White Spots or Powder on Leaves | Powdery patches on foliage. | Powdery mildew due to high humidity and poor air circulation. | Improve airflow and apply a fungicide if needed. |
😯 Sticky Residue or Black Soot on Leaves | Shiny, sticky substance with black patches. | Aphids or scale insects excreting honeydew. | Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Remove pests manually if infestation is small. |
🤔 Holes in Leaves or Ragged Edges | Irregular holes, often appearing overnight. | Caterpillars, snails, or slugs. | Use organic insecticides or hand-pick pests. Apply diatomaceous earth for slugs. |
😧 Tiny Webs on Leaves or Stems | Fine webs with yellow or speckled leaves. | Spider mites in dry, warm conditions. | Increase humidity, rinse leaves, and use miticide if infestation is severe. |
😩 White Cottony Clumps on Stems/Leaves | White, fluffy clusters on stems and leaf joints. | Mealybugs feeding on sap. | Treat with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab or use systemic insecticide. |
😤 Gnats Around Soil Surface | Small flies hovering over soil. | Fungus gnats breeding in damp soil. | Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings and use sticky traps or BTi (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). |
😩 Dark Spots on Leaves | Circular, dark brown to black spots. | Fungal leaf spot from overhead watering or high humidity. | Remove affected leaves and improve airflow. Apply a fungicide if needed. |
📌 Pro Tips for Managing Common Issues:
➜ Improve Air Circulation: Use a small fan to prevent fungal diseases and reduce humidity-related problems.
➜ Inspect Regularly: Check undersides of leaves for pests like spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs.
➜ Use Sterile Tools: Always sanitize pruning tools to prevent spreading diseases.
➜ Soil Management: Refresh soil every 1–2 years to prevent nutrient depletion and pest buildup.
Additional Notes for Caladium Care
Proper Caladium care goes beyond light, water, and feeding. Paying attention to support needs, pruning, and other unique considerations can help these plants thrive. Here are some additional tips and important notes for keeping your Caladiums healthy and vibrant.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning Caladiums helps keep them tidy and encourages new growth. Regularly remove yellow or dead leaves by cutting them back at the base of the petiole with sterilized scissors. Pruning older leaves can also stimulate fuller growth, ensuring the plant remains vibrant.
📌 Propagation Tips
Propagating Caladiums is best done during dormancy by dividing tubers. Use a sharp, sterilized knife to separate sections with at least one “eye” (growth bud). To prevent infection, dust the cut surfaces with sulfur powder before planting. The ideal time to propagate is during repotting in spring for the best success rate.
⚠️ Toxicity Warning
Caladiums are toxic to both pets and humans due to insoluble calcium oxalate crystals in their leaves, stems, and tubers. Ingestion can cause drooling, vomiting, and oral irritation in pets. Always wear gloves when handling Caladiums to prevent skin irritation, and keep the plants out of reach of pets and children.
📌 Pro Tips for Long-Term Success
For long-term success, rotate potted Caladiums every 2–3 weeks to ensure even light exposure and prevent leaning. To avoid salt buildup, flush pots with distilled water once a month. Maintain a consistent watering and feeding schedule to reduce stress and encourage healthy growth.
FAQs About Caladium Care
Caladiums are beloved for their vibrant, heart-shaped leaves and ability to thrive in shaded environments. However, they do come with their share of questions. Here are answers to some of the most common inquiries about growing and caring for Caladiums.
Q1: Can Caladiums grow indoors year-round?
Q2: How often should I water my Caladium?
Q3: Are Caladiums annuals or perennials?
Q4: Are Caladiums toxic to pets or humans?
Q5: Why are my Caladium’s leaves smaller and less colorful than last year?
Q6: How do I store Caladium tubers over winter?
Q7: Can I leave Caladiums in the ground over winter?
Q8: Why are my Caladium’s leaves turning yellow?
Q9: How can I revive a wilting Caladium?
Q10: When should Caladiums be taken out of dormancy?
Conclusion: Bringing Caladiums to Life in Your Space
Caladiums are more than just foliage plants; they are living art with their bold colors and intricate patterns. From their tropical origins to the wide range of cultivars available today, these plants offer a touch of the exotic that transforms any indoor or outdoor space. With the right care—consistent watering, proper light, and attention to dormancy—Caladiums can thrive for years, rewarding you with vibrant leaves season after season.
Understanding the nuances of Caladium care, from fertilizing schedules to managing pests and storing tubers over winter, ensures that these plants reach their full potential. Whether you’re planting them in shaded garden beds or brightening up a room indoors, the effort is well worth it for the stunning display they provide.
If you’re ready to elevate your plant collection with the bold and captivating foliage of Caladiums, now is the time to act.
Order our premium Caladium plants and tubers today and bring the beauty of the tropics into your home.
References, Sources & Further Reading
Here is a list of the sources consulted for this guide on Caladium care, ensuring that the information provided is accurate, reliable, and grounded in expert advice.
CABI Compendium
Rojas-Sandoval, J. Caladium bicolor (heart of Jesus). CABI Compendium Publication ID: 121808.
Summary: Provides an overview of Caladium bicolor’s taxonomy, global distribution, ecological impact, and suggested cultivation practices.
Horticulture Research
Cao, Z., Sui, S., Yang, Q. et al. A single gene controls leaf background color in caladium (Araceae) and is tightly linked to genes for leaf main vein color, spotting and rugosity. Hortic Res 4, 16067 (2017).
Summary: Identifies a key gene determining leaf background color in Caladium and its close linkage with genes regulating vein color, spotting patterns, and surface texture.
HortScience
Deng, Z., Harbaugh, B. K., & Peres, N. A. Caladium Cultivars Cosmic Delight, Fiesta, and Hearts Desire. HortScience, 51(6), 766-771 (2016).
Summary: Presents three new Caladium cultivars featuring distinctive foliage patterns, enhanced disease resistance, and recommended horticultural practices.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
Zhou, Y., Xu, Y., Zhu, G.-F. et al. Pigment Diversity in Leaves of Caladium × hortulanum Birdsey and Transcriptomic and Metabolic Comparisons between Red and White Leaves. Int J Mol Sci, 25(1), 605 (2024).
Summary: Explores pigment composition and gene expression differences between red- and white-leaf Caladium varieties, shedding light on coloration mechanisms.
International Journal of Recycling of Organic Waste in Agriculture
Hussain, R., Younis, A., Riaz, A. et al. Evaluating sustainable and environment friendly substrates for quality production of potted Caladium. Int J Recycl Org Waste Agricult 6, 13–21 (2017).
Summary: Investigates eco-friendly growing media for potted Caladium, assessing plant growth, leaf quality, and overall productivity.
LSU AgCenter
Kirk-Ballard, H. It’s time to harvest caladium bulbs. LSU AgCenter Gardening, October 1, 2020.
Summary: Offers practical advice on harvesting and storing Caladium tubers for winter.
North Carolina State Extension
Caladiums for the Home Landscape.
Summary: Provides insights into planting and maintaining Caladiums in outdoor landscapes.
South African Journal of Botany
Budiarto, R., Mubarok, S., Hamdani, J.S. et al. Physiological characteristics of ornamental caladiums (Caladium x hortulanum Birdsey, Araceae Juss.) through leaf colour diversity. S Afr J Bot 174, 228-238 (2024).
Summary: Examines how leaf color diversity relates to physiological traits in ornamental Caladium, including photosynthetic activity and pigment composition.
Springer – Handbook of Florists' Crops Diseases
Bowman, H.M., Polston, J.E., & McGovern, R.J. Diseases of Caladium. In: McGovern, R., Elmer, W. (eds) Handbook of Florists' Crops Diseases. Springer, Cham (2016).
Summary: Reviews major pathogens affecting Caladium, as well as diagnostic approaches and integrated disease management strategies.
Springer – Ornamental Crops (Handbook of Plant Breeding, vol 11)
Deng, Z. Caladium. In: Van Huylenbroeck, J. (ed.) Ornamental Crops. Handbook of Plant Breeding, vol 11. Springer, Cham (2018).
Summary: Covers Caladium breeding, genetic developments, and recommended cultivation practices, highlighting progress in ornamental trait enhancement.
UF/IFAS Extension (University of Florida)
Gilman, E.F. & Wilson, S.B. (eds). Caladium (Caladium x hortulanum). UF IFAS Publication FPS-83, originally published 1999, revised 2018.
Summary: Provides comprehensive care recommendations, including lighting, watering, and temperature needs for optimal Caladium growth.
UF/IFAS Extension – Volusia County
Stauderman, K. Growing Caladiums in the Landscape. IFAS Gardening Blog, May 22, 2019.
Summary: Discusses soil preferences, common pests, and seasonal care recommendations for Caladiums in home landscapes.
Why These Sources?
The references used in this guide come from peer reviewed articles, university extensions and horticultural experts known for their reliable and research-based information. By consulting these sources, we ensure that all care tips for Caladiums are both effective and science-backed.
For further reading and detailed guides, consider exploring these resources directly. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, these expert sources offer a wealth of information to help you grow Caladiums successfully.
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